Addres:
Thamel - Kathmandu - Nepal
E-mail:
info@alpinistclub.com
Contact No:
+977 9843603583
1 Person From:
$
2 Person From:
$
Max. Elevation: 8586m
Best Season: Spring
Duration: 50 Day
Trip Grading: Hard
Activity: Expedition
Transport: Private vehicle
Accommodation: Hotel - lodge - Tent
Meals: Breakfast - Lunch - Dinner
Availability Status: Breakfast - Lunch - Dinner
Dive into the heart of the Himalayas and discover Kangchenjunga—where rugged terrain and rich culture intertwine for an unforgettable expedition.
Kangchenjunga (8,586 m), the world’s third-highest mountain, is one of the most serious and demanding peaks in the Himalaya. Located in far eastern Nepal, this majestic and remote mountain is suitable only for highly experienced mountaineers with strong high-altitude and technical climbing skills.
| The expedition challenges physical limits and mental resilience in extreme altitude and harsh conditions. |
| The climb features steep ice walls and crevasses, with unpredictable weather adding to the difficulty. |
| Climbers navigate untouched landscapes, encountering diverse wildlife and local cultures. |
| Third Highest Peak At 8,586 meters Kanchenjunga offers breathtaking views of the Himalayas, |
Safety has always been our top priority at Alpinist. Our experienced guides focus on making every climb safe, enjoyable, and successful. We plan each day carefully, closely monitoring weather forecasts and paying special attention as we move into higher altitudes. Throughout the expedition, we carry complete medical kits, essential rescue equipment, and dependable radio and satellite communication devices to ensure constant support and quick response in any situation.
Climbing at high altitude affects everyone in different ways—both the body and the mind. At a certain height, each person reaches a point where climbing feels extremely difficult. This stage is painful and exhausting, but it is not impossible. If you move carefully and patiently, your body can adapt, and things usually start to feel better. This difficult phase can begin around 6,000 meters, or even earlier during the approach trek.
High-altitude climbing has strict rules, and ignoring them can be very dangerous. There is a big difference between climbing quickly to 8,000 meters and coming back down, and staying at that height for 12 to 24 hours. Time spent at altitude matters a lot.
At around 8,000 meters, serious physical and mental problems can begin. Many climbers struggle to sleep, lose their appetite, feel confused or indifferent, and may even experience hallucinations. Above this height, the body slowly starts to shut down.
For beginners, following basic safety rules is extremely important. The first few days at base camp help you understand how your body is reacting to altitude. Usually, after the third day, most people start to feel better. The climbing stages are planned based on the terrain and established camp locations.
As a general guideline, if you can sleep at 6,500 meters without headaches, your body is adapting well. Before going higher, it is recommended to make two trips to 7,000–7,500 meters to test your limits. During these climbs, drinking enough water is critical. After that, spend one night at around 7,500 meters—even if it feels uncomfortable—before attempting the summit at 8,000 meters. If the mountain is higher, it is best to sleep once at 8,000 meters before pushing further.
Above 8,500 meters, mental strength becomes more important than physical strength. You must stay alert and be able to decide when it is time to descend. If you lose the ability to make clear decisions, the situation can become fatal. Climbing to 8,000 meters is hard even in good weather; in bad weather, it can be extremely dangerous.
General Precautions for High Altitude Climbing
High-altitude climbing requires careful preparation, proper acclimatization, teamwork, mental alertness, and the courage to retreat immediately if there is weakness, doubt, or danger.
The route on Kangchenjunga is very committing. Once climbers move above Base Camp, retreat options become limited, and every decision must be taken with great care. In poor weather, descending—especially from higher camps—can be extremely difficult. Strong and often violent winds are common on the upper mountain and can slow progress or force climbers to wait for safe weather windows.
One of the highlights of Kangchenjunga is the varied and technical nature of the climb. Unlike many other 8,000-meter peaks, the ascent includes sections of rock climbing at very high altitude, making the route both challenging and interesting. Climbers must be confident on snow, ice, and rock, even in extreme conditions.
A key factor in the success of the expedition is the condition of the Yalung Glacier. This massive glacier forms the main approach to the upper mountain and includes two large icefalls between 5,900 m and 7,100 m. These icefalls are complex and potentially dangerous, requiring careful route planning and good timing.
Above the glacier lies the famous Great Shelf, a wide and exposed area that leads higher toward the summit. While it appears less steep, it is fully open to wind and storms, making weather stability essential. From here, the route continues into a large couloir, followed by a long, rising traverse with rocky sections that leads to the summit.
Climbing Kangchenjunga is not just about reaching the top—it is about experience, preparation, and respect for the mountain. For those with the required skills and endurance, it offers one of the most rewarding and technically interesting high-altitude expeditions in the Himalaya.
DAY 1: ARRIVE IN KATHMANDU
DAY 2: FREE DAY IN KATHMANDU
DAY 3: FLIGHT FROM KATHMANDU TO BHADRAPUR — ILAM — KANYAM
DAY 4: KANYAM — SUKETAR (TAPLEJUNG) — LALI KHARKA
DAY 5: LALI KHARKA — SINCHEWA
DAY 6: SINCHEWA — MAMANKHE
DAY 7: MAMANKHE — BHOTEGAON
DAY 8: BHOTEGAON — LAMITE BHANJYANG (3,406 m) — TORTONG
DAY 9: TORTONG — TSERAM
DAY 10: REST IN TSERAM
DAY 11: HELICOPTER FLIGHT TSERAM — KANGCHENJUNGA BASE CAMP
DAYS 12 & 13: ACCLIMATIZATION AT BASE CAMP
DAYS 14 TO 52: ASCENT OF KANGCHENJUNGA (8,586 m)
DAY 53: HELICOPTER FLIGHT BASE CAMP — TSERAM
DAY 54: TREK TSERAM — TORTONG
DAY 55: TORTONG — LAMITE BHANJYANG (3,406 m) — BHOTEGAON
DAY 56: BHOTEGAON — PHOMPHE DANDA
DAY 57: PHOMPHE DANDA — SINCHEWA BHANJYANG
DAY 58: SINCHEWA BHANJYANG — LALI KHARKA — SUKETAR
DAY 59: DRIVE FROM SUKETAR TO BIRTAMOD
DAY 60: BIRTAMOD — BHADRAPUR — FLIGHT TO KATHMANDU
DAY 61: LEISURE TIME IN KATHMANDU
DAY 62: FINAL DEPARTURE TO TRIBHUWAN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE : ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE :
HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU : HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU :
WELCOME DINNER : WELCOME DINNER :
PERMITS : PERMITS :
KHUMBU ICEFALL FEE : KHUMBU ICEFALL FEE :
LIAISON OFFICER : LIAISON OFFICER :
GARBAGE MANAGEMENT : GARBAGE MANAGEMENT :
INSURANCE : INSURANCE :
MAP : MAP :
DUFFLE BAG : DUFFLE BAG :
MEMBER TRANSPORTATION : MEMBER TRANSPORTATION :
EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION : EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION :
MEMBER LUGGAGE : MEMBER LUGGAGE :
FOOD AND LODGING : FOOD AND LODGING :
PORTER : PORTER :
BASE CAMP STAFF : BASE CAMP STAFF :
STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE : STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE :
BASE CAMP TENT : BASE CAMP TENT :
BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT : BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT :
HEATER : HEATER :
SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT : SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT :
MEDICAL CHECKUP : MEDICAL CHECKUP :
TRAINING : TRAINING :
HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA : HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA :
ASSISTANCE : ASSISTANCE :
CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE : CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE :
BONUS : BONUS :
OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2):Summit Oxygen cylinder : OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2):Summit Oxygen cylinder :
OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR : OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR :
BACK-UP OXYGEN : BACK-UP OXYGEN :
HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) : HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) :
HIGH CAMP KITCHEN AND DINING : HIGH CAMP KITCHEN AND DINING :
HIGH ALTITUDE TENT : HIGH ALTITUDE TENT :
ROPE FIXING TEAM : ROPE FIXING TEAM :
SATELLITE PHONE : SATELLITE PHONE :
WALKIE-TALKIE : WALKIE-TALKIE :
PERMITS : PERMITS :
INTERNET SERVICE : INTERNET SERVICE :
WEATHER FORECAST : WEATHER FORECAST :
MEDICAL KIT : MEDICAL KIT :
SUMMIT BONUS : SUMMIT BONUS : Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa- Minimum 1800 USD.
CERTIFICATE : CERTIFICATE :
AIR FARE :
NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE :
LUNCH & DINNER :
EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU :
INSURANCE POLICY :
PERSONAL EXPENSES :
PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT :
TOILETRIES :
FILMING :
INTERNET SERVICE :
TIPS :
EXTRA : Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary, and other items not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.
1. What is the height of Kangchenjunga? :
2. Where is Kangchenjunga located? : The mountain is located on the border between Nepal and the Sikkim.
3. What are the main climbing routes to Kangchenjunga? : The primary routes are the Southwest Face (Nepal side) and the Northeast Ridge (Sikkim/India side).
4. Is prior climbing experience required to attempt Kangchenjunga? : Yes, climbers should have prior experience in high-altitude mountaineering and technical climbing skills.
5. What is the best time to climb Kangchenjunga? : The optimal climbing seasons are typically pre-monsoon (April to May) and post-monsoon (September to October).
6. What are the main challenges of the Kangchenjunga expedition? : Challenges include steep ice walls, crevasses, unpredictable weather, and high altitude.
7. Do I need a permit to trek or climb Kangchenjunga? : Yes, climbers require special permits for both the trek and the ascent, which can be obtained through trekking agencies.
8. What is the physical fitness requirement for the expedition? : Climbers should be in excellent physical condition, with endurance training recommended for high-altitude treks.
9. Are there any cultural considerations during the expedition? :
10. What type of gear is needed for the expedition? :
11. How long does the Kangchenjunga expedition take? : The entire expedition can take 4 to 6 weeks, including trekking to the base camp and acclimatization.
12. Is there a risk of altitude sickness? : Yes, altitude sickness is a significant risk; proper acclimatization is crucial to mitigate this risk.
13. What should I expect at base camp? :
14. What is the success rate for summiting Kangchenjunga? :
15. Can I interact with local communities during the trek? : Yes, trekkers often have opportunities to engage with local communities