Addres:
Thamel - Kathmandu - Nepal
E-mail:
info@alpinistclub.com
Contact No:
+977 9843603583
1 Person From:
$12999
2 Person From:
$
Max. Elevation: 7,678 M
Best Season: Spring- Autumn- Winter
Duration: 38 days
Trip Grading: Easy
Activity: Expedition
Transport: Private vehicle
Accommodation: Hotel- Lodge
Meals: Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
Availability Status: Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
Climb Makalu II (Kangchungtse), a 7,678m peak ideal for mountaineers preparing for 8,000ers. Experience steep technical sections, high-altitude challenges, and breathtaking Himalayan views on this classic training expedition in Nepal.
Climb Makalu II, also known as Kangchungtse (7,678 m), with Alpinist Club on a challenging high-altitude mountaineering expedition in Nepal's remote Makalu-Barun region. This expedition combines a scenic approach through the Arun Valley and Barun Valley with glacier travel, technical climbing, high-camp rotations, and a demanding summit attempt.
The 38-day itinerary includes preparation in Kathmandu, a flight to Tumlingtar, a trek through remote mountain settlements, acclimatization at high altitude, and a dedicated climbing period. Experienced climbing Sherpas and an expedition support team assist with logistics, camp establishment, route preparation, and climbing operations as specified in the package.
Makalu II is a serious mountaineering objective, not an introductory climbing peak. Participants should have previous high-altitude expedition experience, excellent physical fitness, and strong technical climbing skills. Summit success depends on weather, snow and ice conditions, acclimatization, and the decisions of the expedition leadership.
Join Alpinist Club for a professionally organized Himalayan expedition with a focus on safety, careful acclimatization, and responsible mountaineering.
| Take on a challenging high-altitude Himalayan climbing adventure. |
| enefit from dedicated 1:1 high-altitude Sherpa support. |
| Explore the spectacular Makalu-Barun region and Barun Valley. |
| Enjoy organized base-camp facilities, meals, and climbing support. |
| 1. Challenge yourself with technical climbing, acclimatization, and a planned summit attempt. |
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu
Participants arrive in Kathmandu. Our team will greet you at the airport and manage your transfer to the hotel. Passports will be collected for processing the climbing permit
Days 2 & 3: Kathmandu Preparation Days
Expedition briefing with the team leader regarding required equipment. If needed, additional gear can be purchased in the mountaineering shops around Thamel. Meanwhile, our local staff will handle administrative formalities and finalize climbing permits.
Day 4: Flight kathmandu to Tumlingtar and drive to Num
Morning flight to Tumlingtar offers spectacular views of the Nepal Himalayas, including Langtang, Rolwaling, and the distant Khumbu peaks. Upon landing, our private vehicle will transfer us to Num, a village overlooking the Arun River and the starting point of our trek.
Day 5: Trek Num to Arun River To Seduwa
The trail follows a descending route toward the Arun River. After leaving the vehicle behind, we continue on foot with our porters. We cross a suspension bridge and climb steadily to Seduwa, a charming village with traditional lowland houses.
Day 6: Trek Seduwa to Tashi Gaon To Sadema
We trek through bamboo, birch, and rhododendron forest, contouring above the valley. After passing Tashi Gaon— the final permanent settlement in the Arun Valley— the trail climbs in switchbacks to the Sadema pasture.
Day 7: Trek Sadema To Kongma Kharka
A long, steady ascent. The forest gradually thins, revealing increasingly impressive high-mountain scenery. In some seasons, the rhododendrons may still be blooming.
Day 8: Trek Kongma Kharka To Shipton La to Keke La to Mumbuk To Dobato
A stunning day crossing the Shipton La Pass (4,217 m) through rhododendron forests. We ascend a ridge with spectacular views of Chamlang and Makalu. After crossing several passes—Ghungru La (4,050 m) and Keke La (4,180 m)—we descend gradually to the Mumbuk pastures and continue to Dobato.
Day 9: Trek Dobato to Yangle Kharka
The path traverses steep slopes above the Arun basin and can be narrow and exposed. After crossing a forest and navigating sections affected by landslides, we reach Phemathang Kharka for lunch. A new wooden bridge leads us across the Barun Khola before continuing to Yangle Kharka, a settlement of a few wooden lodges.
Day 10: Acclimatization Day In Yangle Day In Yangle Kharka
A full rest day to help our bodies acclimatize to altitude.
Day 11: Trek Yangle Kharka to Barun Glacier To langmale kharka
We follow the left bank of the river on a temporary trail shaped by past mudslides. After rejoining the original path, we enter a pine forest with beautiful views of the glacial valleys of Peaks 6 and 7. A gentle ascent brings us to Merek, then across the new riverbed formed by landslide debris, before climbing to Langmale Kharka.
Day 12: Trek langmale to Hillary Base camp
We cross the Langmale pastures and follow the moraine on the west side of the Barun Glacier. At Shershong, we turn toward a pass that offers the first breathtaking view of Makalu’s massive south face. We contour along the moraine before descending to cross the river and reach Hillary Base Camp. Optional afternoon hike to a nearby moraine lake and prayer-flag hill.
Days 13 & 14: Acclimatization at Hillary base camp
Two full days dedicated to acclimatization, including an ascent of Makalu Pattar (5,795 m) for exceptional panoramic views, including the north face of Everest. Return to camp for rest.
Day 15: Ascent to advanced Base Camp (True makalu Base Camp )
We follow cairns through lateral moraines and across the Barun Glacier. After passing below the dramatic west pillar of Makalu below, we ascend scree slopes toward the northwest couloir and arrive at Advanced Base Camp (ABC).
Days 16–30: Ascent of Makalu II / Kangchungste
A 14-day climbing window is allocated for summit attempts. Key stages include:
ABC (5690 m) → Camp 1 (6165 m): ~6 hours
Gentle ascent through the northwest couloir. One acclimatization night.
Day 31: Trek Hillary Base camp To Marek
We begin our descent, now faster and easier due to improved acclimatization.
Day 32: Trek Marek to Mumbuk to Dobato
Day 33: Trek Dobato to Sadema
Day 34: Trek Sadema to num
Day 35: Transfer Num to Tumlingtar
Drive back to Tumlingtar.
Day 36: Flight Tumlingtar to kathmandu
Return flight to Kathmandu (1 hour).
Day 37: Free Day in kathmandu
A full day for independent sightseeing, shopping, or relaxation.
Day 38: International Departure
Transfer to the airport for your international flight back home, depending on your schedule.
Airport Transfers : Airport Transfers : Private vehicle transfers between Tribhuvan International Airport and your hotel on arrival and departure.
Kathmandu Accommodation : Kathmandu Accommodation :
Four nights in a single room at a four-star hotel on a bed-and-breakfast basis, as stated in the existing package.
Welcome Dinner : Welcome Dinner :
One welcome dinner at a tourist-standard restaurant in Kathmandu with the Alpinist Club team.
Domestic Flights : Domestic Flights : Kathmandu–Tumlingtar and Tumlingtar–Kathmandu flights, subject to the final confirmed package.
Ground Transportation : Ground Transportation : Private vehicle transfers are required by the confirmed itinerary.
Trekking Accommodation : Trekking Accommodation : Lodge accommodation during the approach trek, where available, and camping accommodation where required.
Member Baggage : Member Baggage : Up to 40 kg per member for personal baggage carried by porters or pack animals, subject to route logistics and confirmed baggage arrangements.
Expedition Equipment Transport : Expedition Equipment Transport : Transport of the agreed group expedition equipment between Kathmandu, Tumlingtar, the approach route, and base camp.
Climbing Permit : Climbing Permit : Applicable Makalu II climbing permit.
Trekking Permits : Trekking Permits : Required trekking and conservation-area permits for the confirmed route.
Government Liaison Officer : Government Liaison Officer : Government-licensed liaison officer, including the applicable salary, equipment, and accommodation.
Garbage Management : Garbage Management : Applicable expedition waste-management and garbage-deposit fees.
Alpinist Club Duffle Bag : Alpinist Club Duffle Bag : One expedition duffel bag per member.
Meals During the Trek : Meals During the Trek : Breakfast, lunch, and dinner during the trekking stages, according to the confirmed itinerary.
Base Camp Meals : Base Camp Meals : Meals prepared by the expedition kitchen team during the base-camp period.
Base Camp Kitchen Team : Base Camp Kitchen Team : Experienced cook and kitchen assistants as required by the operating plan.
Porters and Support Staff : Porters and Support Staff : Agreed porters and local staff for transporting expedition equipment and supporting base-camp operations.
Staff Insurance : Staff Insurance : Medical and emergency-rescue insurance for the Nepalese staff included in the expedition contract.
Base Camp Accommodation : Base Camp Accommodation : Individual sleeping tent, mattress, and pillow for each member.
Base Camp Facilities : Base Camp Facilities : Dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, shower tent, staff accommodation, storage tents, tables, chairs, and cooking equipment as specified in the package.
Power Supply : Power Supply : Solar power and/or generator support for agreed lighting and charging facilities at base camp.
High-Camp Accommodation : High-Camp Accommodation : Shared high-altitude tents, planned at approximately two climbers per tent, subject to final logistics.
High-Camp Supplies : High-Camp Supplies : Agreed tents, cooking equipment, fuel, food supplies, and group climbing equipment for the designated high camps.
Fixed-Rope Support : Fixed-Rope Support : Route preparation and fixed-rope support during the climbing period, subject to mountain conditions and the final climbing plan.
Climbing Sherpa : Climbing Sherpa : One high-altitude climbing Sherpa per member (1:1 ratio), as stated in the existing package, for the contracted climbing services.
Sherpa Equipment and Allowances : Sherpa Equipment and Allowances :
Oxygen bottles will be in stock at base camp in case of an emergency (with an appropriate charge).
Climbing Support : Climbing Support : Assistance with carrying agreed climbing equipment to high camps and during climbing rotations.
Training : Training : Base-camp instruction on the use of climbing equipment and oxygen systems, if these services are confirmed in the final package.
Weather Forecast : Weather Forecast : Expedition weather information during the climbing period.
Communication : Communication : Expedition radios and satellite-phone access for emergency and operational communication, subject to the package's usage conditions.
Medical Kit : Medical Kit : Expedition medical supplies for members and staff.
Summit Certificate: : Summit Certificate: : Makalu II climbing certificate, subject to the operator's certificate policy and the relevant summit verification.
Air fare :
International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
Nepal entry visa fee :
The Nepalese Visa fee is $ 125 USD for 90 Days.
Kathmandu Meals : Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu, except the included welcome dinner and any other meals explicitly listed.
Extra Accommodation : Additional hotel nights caused by early arrival, late departure, itinerary changes, flight cancellations, or an early return from the expedition, unless otherwise agreed.
Personal Expenses : Telephone calls, internet, laundry, toiletries, battery charging, hot showers where charged, snacks, and personal purchases.
Personal Climbing Equipment : Clothing, boots, harness, helmet, crampons, ice axe, sleeping bag, down suit, gloves, goggles, and other personal trekking and mountaineering gear.
Personal Medical Supplies: : Individual medication and personal first-aid items.
Personal Travel and Mountaineering Insurance : Each member must arrange insurance covering high-altitude mountaineering up to at least 7,678 m, emergency evacuation, medical treatment, trip cancellation, interruption, and repatriation
Summit Bonus : The high-altitude Sherpa summit bonus 1200 USd
Oxygen and Personal Oxygen Equipment : Summit oxygen cylinders, masks, regulators, and personal oxygen use unless explicitly included in the confirmed package. Emergency oxygen held at base camp should not be represented as included summit oxygen.
Additional Services : - Any service, item, or activity not expressly included in the confirmed itinerary and package inclusions.
Our experienced Nepalese team includes an expedition leader (Sirdar), high-altitude climbing Sherpas, assistant guides, cooks, kitchen assistants, and porters. Each team member has a specific role in supporting your safety, comfort, and expedition logistics.
The expedition includes one high-altitude climbing Sherpa per participant (1:1 ratio), as specified in the package. Your Sherpa provides technical support during the ascent and summit attempt. A summit bonus is payable in cash according to the agreed terms.
The expedition leader manages acclimatization, climbing rotations, weather monitoring, and summit planning. All participants must follow the leader's safety instructions. The itinerary or summit attempt may be changed if conditions are unsafe.
Our kitchen team prepares meals at base camp, while porters transport group equipment and supplies during the approach trek. High-altitude Sherpas assist with setting up and supplying the higher camps.
Participants carry their personal belongings and snacks, with a recommended backpack weight of approximately 10–12 kg.
Makalu II is a demanding high-altitude expedition for experienced mountaineers. Excellent physical fitness, endurance, mental resilience, and previous high-altitude climbing experience are essential. Participants must be familiar with crampons, ice axes, harnesses, ropes, and glacier travel.
We recommend several months of physical and technical preparation before departure.
Meals are provided during the trek and expedition according to the package. Typical meals include rice, pasta, lentils, vegetables, eggs, soup, and other available local foods.
At high camps, lightweight expedition meals are provided. Tea and coffee are available according to the package arrangements. Bring suitable water-purification supplies and follow your guide's advice on safe drinking water. Personal snacks and additional drinks may cost extra.
Private vehicles are used for the road transfers included in the itinerary. The approach and return journeys are planned as treks to support gradual acclimatization. A helicopter return may be arranged at an additional cost, subject to weather and availability.
The planned group size is 1–10 participants, as stated in the original package. Private group arrangements may be available upon request.
Alpinist Club provides the agreed group equipment, including base-camp tents, dining and kitchen facilities, high-altitude tents, cooking equipment, ropes, and anchors required by the climbing plan.
Personal clothing and mountaineering equipment are not included unless specified. Rental of selected high-altitude equipment may be arranged in advance for an additional fee.
The expedition plan includes satellite communication, radios, and medical supplies as specified in the package. A portable hyperbaric chamber is listed for base camp; its availability should be confirmed before departure.
Weather, route conditions, and altitude-related health concerns may affect the itinerary. Summit success cannot be guaranteed.
A medical check-up with a doctor experienced in high-altitude medicine is recommended before departure. A dental check-up is also advisable.
Altitude sickness may cause headaches, nausea, dizziness, and fatigue. Severe cases can develop into life-threatening conditions, including high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE).
Report symptoms immediately to your expedition leader and follow medical advice. Proper acclimatization and timely descent when necessary are essential. Discuss altitude-related medication with your doctor before the expedition.
1. How high is Makalu II? : Makalu II, also known as Kangchungtse, stands at 7,678 meters above sea level.
2. How difficult is the Makalu II expedition? : It is a challenging high-altitude mountaineering expedition requiring excellent fitness, technical climbing skills, and previous high-altitude experience.
3. How long is the expedition? : The planned itinerary is 38 days, including arrival, trekking, acclimatization, climbing, and return to Kathmandu.
4. When is the best time to climb Makalu II? : Spring- April are the main seasons to consider, subject to weather conditions and expedition planning.
5. What climbing experience is required? : Previous high-altitude expedition experience and proficiency with crampons, ice axes, harnesses, ropes, and glacier travel are essential.
6. Is a climbing Sherpa included? : The package specifies one high-altitude climbing Sherpa per participant (1:1 ratio). A summit bonus may be payable separately according to the agreed terms.
7. Are meals and accommodation included? : Meals and accommodation are provided according to the package, including hotel accommodation in Kathmandu, lodges during the trek, and tents at base camp and higher camps.
8. What equipment should I bring? : You must bring suitable personal mountaineering equipment, including technical boots, crampons, an ice axe, a harness, a helmet, suitable clothing, and a high-altitude sleeping bag. A detailed equipment list should be provided before departure.
9. What insurance do I need? : You need comprehensive travel and mountaineering insurance covering climbing up to 7,678 meters, emergency evacuation, medical treatment, and repatriation.
10. Can the itinerary change? : Yes. Weather, route conditions, flight disruptions, and acclimatization needs may require changes to the schedule
11. Is reaching the summit guaranteed? : No. Summit success depends on weather, climbing conditions, individual health, and acclimatization. Safety always comes first.