Climbing a mythical 8,000-meter peak like Manaslu is a dream for many mountain enthusiasts. Our expedition offers you the best chance to achieve this lifelong goal. While Manaslu is technically less difficult than some other peaks, reaching the summit still requires tremendous effort and dedication. We have an experienced expedition leader and local teams who know Manaslu well from organizing previous expeditions. It's an extraordinary adventure and a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in this incredible experience.
Manaslu "mountain of the spirit"
Manaslu, standing at 8,163 meters, is an impressive peak and the eighth highest in the world. The name "Manaslu" comes from Sanskrit and it means things like "mountain of the spirit" or "safe place for the soul". Climbing up Manaslu is something that mountain climbers can do, but it's still a big and challenging task, just like climbing the other huge mountains in the Himalayas.
Spring is a less busy time to go up Manaslu compared to autumn because most people who go on big expeditions choose to climb Mount Everest instead. Our expedition to Manaslu combines trekking around the mountain with going over a high pass called Larke la Pass (which is 5,160 meters high). This whole area is really interesting because of the local culture and the amazing geography of the Himalayas.
Climbing Manaslu is tough and requires some special skills, but it's not as technically difficult as some other peaks like Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma. Along the way, we'll also get to explore different stages of the Himalayas and meet various Nepalese ethnic groups like the Gurung and Tibetans who live in the villages we pass through.
Manaslu's "real Summit" and "false Summit,"
Manaslu has a "real summit" and a "false summit,". From the false summit to the real summit, you need to ascend around 100m of flat terrain and a 50-60m slope at 30-35 degrees. Safety is a priority, and the rope fixing team secures the route, especially on windy days. The summit area is very narrow, making it difficult for 2-3 climbers to stand together. As a result, there can be long queues of climbers waiting to reach the summit.
Our expedition to Manaslu is designed to give us the best chance of succeeding. Even though the climb is a bit challenging, it's a great opportunity to learn how to handle the high-altitude environment. But let's not forget that reaching the summit is a big achievement that takes a lot of hard work. The Alpinist club arranges many expeditions to Mount Manaslu every year, helping people experience this incredible adventure.
Itinerary
Upon your arrival in Kathmandu, our local team warmly welcomes you at the airport. You will then be escorted to the hotel, where you can enjoy some well-dezerved relaxation. The itinerary includes a briefing about the trek's progress and presentation, followed by leisure time. If you arrive in the morning, you'll have the entire day at your disposal. This can be used for rest or for those interested, to explore the surroundings freely. It's an ideal chance to deeply experience Nepalese culture and indulge in the local culinary delights.
Transfer to the hotel
Final altitude: approximately 13,50 m
Meals: Dinner
Accommodation: night in the hotel
Update with the expedition manager on the equipment carried. If necessary, the many mountain equipment shops in Thamel can help you complete your equipment. During this time, our local team is doing the necessary to complete the essential administrative formalities and the climbing permits.
Meals: breakfasts at the hotel
Accommodation: nights at the hotel
A very early departure for two days of travel by bus and jeep. Fortunately, the road improves from year to year, and from Dharapani we set off on foot for Goa, a hamlet of lodges on the Manaslu trek.
Mode of transfer/transportation: by private vehicle
Duration of transfer/transportation: approximately 8 hours
walking: about 3 hours
Final altitude: about 2,500 m
Meals: breakfasts – lunches – dinners
Accommodation: nights in a lodge
A smooth start to the trek, as we will soon cross a large pass over 5,000 meters. The valley becomes more and more alpine with beautiful forests and, in a clearing, our evening lodge, Chauli Kharka.
Number of hours of walking: about 4 h
Elevation: + 500 m
Final altitude: approximately 3,020 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: overnight at a hotel
We continue our progress along the milk river and, at times beautiful views of the peaks of Manaslu Himal and the Bhimthag valley.
walking: about 5 h
Final altitude: approximately 3,710 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
A day acclimatize. Either by hiking to Ponkar Lake or a new base camp to the western slope of Manaslu, or simply enjoying the place.
Final altitude: approximately 3,710 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
access to the upper Nubri valley with the villages of Samdo and Sama has been via the Larkya Pass which is now regularly used by muleteers from both valleys. It is through this pass that our expedition equipment will pass. On our side, always to improve our acclimatization, we set up a bivouac just above Bimthang, at Larkya Phedi near a temporary teashop. A great way to find ourselves at altitude facing the Nemjung before crossing the Larkya. On the other side, we set up our camp between Dharamshala and Samdo.
walking: approximately 7 h
Final altitude: approximately 3,850 m
Meals: breakfasts – lunches – dinners
Accommodation: nights in a lodge
A very quiet descent to enjoy this high valley at the foot of Manaslu. During this time, the Nepalese team will have organized the transport of our equipment to base camp using local porters. A special local rule that we respect by not using a helicopter, unlike many teams who even make the trip directly from Kathmandu.
walking : 3 hours from Samdo, 6 hours from Dharamsala
Final altitude: about 3,400 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
A long climb that is difficult to achieve otherwise. The departure is early, the course above the lake is particularly aesthetic and our kitchen team is waiting for us directly at the base camp at 4,850 meters. Here we are “at home” for the mountaineering part of our journey at altitude.
walking: approximately 8 h
Final altitude: approximately 4,850 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a tent
For this ascent of Manaslu, we plan 5 altitude camps.
Camp 0.5: 5,400m
This intermediate camp is only for the first rotation and it is located roughly halfway between the base camp and camp 1 (5900 m). We sleep there one night before continuing to camp 1.
Camp 1: 5,900m
The walk to camp 1 from the BC is without difficulty, but it is long and its duration is reduced with acclimatization (from 7 hours to 5 hours).
The last part towards Camp 1 is a bit steeper.
The route to Camp 1 involves climbing over grassy slopes, rock slabs and a moraine, followed by a crevassed glacier which is reached after an hour after leaving base camp. This is the time when you put on your crampons ( crampons point ), to climb occasional small glacial jumps to camp 1 at 5,900 meters. Depending on the season, there may be snow around base camp and below. The view of the surrounding peaks will add reference to the climb and the team will enjoy seeing more of the top of the mountain.
Camp 2: 6,400m
The route to Camp 2 at 6,400 meters is considered the technical part of the climb, with a crevassed glacier where fixed ropes provide safety on the steeper parts. The terrain has long slopes of snow inclined at 40/45 degrees, involving the crossing of some sections of vertical ice, where the progression is made on the front points of the crampons, with the help of fixed ropes. To overcome these short glacial jumps, it is necessary to have perfected your technique of progression on fixed ropes by means of a self-locking handle and to know how to use the front points of the crampons. Count about 5 to 7 hours between the two camps.
Location of camp 2 around 6,400 meters, at the exit of the snow slope at 40/45 degrees, on a plateau.
Camp 3: 6,800m
Above Camp 2 the slopes decrease and the route to Camp 3 at 6,800 meters may pose no difficulty, but it depends on the configuration of the glacier. In the fall of 2021, there were two relatively vertical sections between Camp 2 and Camp 3, the difficulty of which was equivalent to the sections climbed between Camp 1 and Camp 2, although shorter. This part is done in about 3 to 4 hours. Camp 3 is located at the pass, or better, just below, protected from the wind if the snow conditions allow it.
Camp 4: 7,400m
From camp 3, the start is quite quiet, then the slope inclines at 50 degrees, and straightens up to 70 degrees over 5 meters before camp 4, located at 7,400 meters, slightly behind the ridge. All in all, the ascent is rather difficult at the end, especially with the altitude. It requires a well-deserved rest and rehydration once you arrive at Camp 4. Summit attempt the same evening.
On the way to the summit: 8,156m/8,163m
Departure generally between 11 p.m. and 1 a.m. The night was short, the sleep light. It is from camp 4 that the oxygen intake starts for those who wish.
The progression is not technical on the first part of the pre-summit plateau, because we climb from plateau to plateau, crossing some short steeper passages. The whole thing is no more difficult than the ascent of the Dôme du Goûter in the Mont-Blanc massif.
A gradual climb, especially for those attempting the summit without oxygen supply. Oxygen brings heat to the body.
Throughout the day, our teams of altitude Sherpas are doing their best to help the group, during this memorable day whose goal is to reach the top of the eighth highest mountain in the world!
A long descent to reach Sama.
Number of hours of walking: about 6 hours
Elevation: - 1,450 m
Final altitude: about 3,400 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a tent
We continue our progress towards the long mani wall of Kermo Manan and the village of Samdo (3,850 m) located very close to the Tibetan border, not far from the confluence of the Sama Chu with the Budhi Gandaki, and which is home to a community of Tibetan refugees.
walking: about 4 h
Final altitude: about 3,850 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
We know this pass well, as we have already crossed it on the way out. Our strategy will be much the same: an intermediate camp to bring us closer to the pass and above all avoid Dharamsala, which is not very pleasant and too crowded.
walking: about 6 h
Final altitude: approximately 4,700 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: overnight camping
Crossing the pass is a formality for us, but beware of bad weather which can make this type of busy route much more complex. The arrival at Bimthang definitely marks the end of the high mountain with the comfort of the lodges.
walking: about 6 hrs
Final altitude: approximately 3,710 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
We descend the valley of the Dudh Khola River to the village of Tilije, inhabited by the Gurung ethnic group. We still cross mountain pasture hamlets, then find wooded areas and the first hamlets.
walking: about 6 h
Final altitude: approximately 2,000 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
A little walk in the morning to reach Dharapani. Then the jeep trip to Besi Sahar and the bus, which will take us to Kathmandu in about 6 to 7 hours drive.
transfer/transportation: by private vehicle
Duration of transfer/transportation: approximately 10 hours
Number of hours of walking: about 2 hours
Meals: breakfast – lunch – free dinner (not included)
Accommodation: overnight at a hotel
free time depending on the departure time of your flight and our representative will drop you at the airport, ending your journey in Nepal. We hope to be of service to you again. Thank you and safe travels.
Trip Included
- ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE : Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by a private vehicle.
- HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU : 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) - single room on bed and breakfast plan.
- WELCOME DINNER : One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office’s Staff.
- PERMITS : Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Manaslu Conservation area entry permits and fee and Restricted area permit fee.
- LIAISON OFFICER : 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
- GARBAGE MANAGEMENT : Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
- INSURANCE : Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
- MAP : Trekking and climbing map.
- DUFFLE BAG : One Alpinist club Duffle Bag.
- MEMBER TRANSPORTATION : Land Transportation: Drive from Kathmandu to Dharapani via Besishahar, and while returning Machha Khola to Kathmandu, as per itinerary.
- EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION : All necessary equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Arukhet (by jeep) – Arukhet to Sama Gaun (by Heli) and Base camp (by Porters) – While returning: Base camp to Sama Gaun (by porters) – Sama Gaun to Arukhet (by Heli) and Arughat to Kathmandu (by Jeep)
- MEMBER LUGGAGE : Up to 50 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or Yaks.
- FOOD AND LODGING : 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fruits, soft drinks, and juice will be served regularly during the entire expedition using helicopter flights. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
- PORTER : Porter per member up to and from Base camp (both ways).
- BASE CAMP STAFF : Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
- STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE : All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
- BASE CAMP TENT : Each member will have an individual box tent in Base Camp.
- BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT : Single Tent, foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dinning Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staffs Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staffs, Store tents, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
- HEATER : Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
- SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT : 1 Solar panel or Generator for battery charge and light at base camp for use.
- TRAINING : Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and Ladder training at basecamp by a professional guide.
- HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA : governments-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.
- ASSISTANCE : Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
- CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE : Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.
- OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2) : Summit Oxygen: 3 oxygen bottles (4 ltrs.) for each member and 1 oxygen bottle for each high-altitude Sherpa. **
- OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR : 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks and regulator for each member and high-altitude Sherpa, which has to be returned after the expedition.
- BACK-UP OXYGEN : Back up Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator (with appropriate charge).
- HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) : High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) (C3) and (C4). Group climbing gears, and fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
- HIGH CAMP KITCHEN AND DINING : SST will have one cook, kitchen, and dining tents in Camp I and Camp II.
- HIGH ALTITUDE TENT : Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
- ROPE FIXING TEAM : The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the route on Manaslu (no extra charge will be applied to members).
- SATELLITE PHONE : Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with appropriate charge.
- WALKIE-TALKIE : Walkie–Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
- PERMITS : Satellite Phone/Walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
- INTERNET SERVICE : Internet facility (1 Mbps) will be available at the Base Camp (subject to a charge).
- WEATHER FORECAST : Weather forecast report regularly from Meteotest, Bern (Switzerland) during the entire expedition.
- MEDICAL KIT : Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
- CERTIFICATE : Mt. Manalsu climbing certificate issued by MoCTCA (after climbing Mt. Manaslu successfully).
Trip Excluded
- AIR FARE : International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
- NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE : Nepalese Visa fee is $125 USD for 90 Days.
- LUNCH & DINNER : Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
- EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU : Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
- INSURANCE POLICY : Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high altitude rescue & air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory
- PERSONAL EXPENSES : Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
- PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT : Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.
- TOILETRIES : Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
- FILMING : Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
- INTERNET SERVICE : Not included during the trek.
- SUMMIT BONUS : Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa- Minimum 1500 USD.
- TIPS : Calculate some tips for Basecamp staff – Minimum 400 USD.
- EXTRA : Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary and other items not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.
Trip Organization
Your Guide and Team in Manaslu Expedition
Your guide, from your arrival in Kathmandu until your departure, is responsible for the success of your trip and oversees your team. Do not hesitate to ask him questions, respect his position as the team leader, and above all follow his advice! Often your guide is the only English-speaking member of the team. In the mountains and, especially when during high-altitude travels, your guide is responsible for the safety of the group. The instructions he gives and the remarks he makes to all participants must be carefully followed. The interest and safety of the trekking group must be preserved, even when it may be to the detriment of an individual member of the group.
Your Nepalese team may consist of several people, each with different responsibilities. They are:
The Guide Leader (Sirdar) is responsible for and leader of the whole team and is treated with respect by all. Often he has earned his position by starting as a porter and rising through the ranks.
climbing sherpa: experienced and skilled mountain guide, fixed rope and take to summit
The Cook is responsible for all meals and is on a trek that doesn’t use lodges for meals.
The Kitchen-boy is an assistant to the cook.
The Assistant Guide is actively helping clients under the leader’s direction and set camp.
The Porter is the load carrier for the trekking group. As Nepal is a mountain country with few roads, porters are employed to carry loads. Compliance with regulations and common courtesy dictates the maximum weight carried and the minimum wage paid. Porters are provided with gear based on the routes they follow, and with insurance for alpine treks.
Each trekker is allotted the following maximum weights per person: Lodge (tea house) Accommodations: 15 kg maximum; Tent Camping: 22 kg maximum; Expeditions/summit ascents: 20 kg maximum. The porters are given a premium wage for carrying loads over 30 kg.
In addition, the Alpinist club takes care to take out insurance for the Guide and porters. Specific equipment is allocated to them for crossing passes at altitude (even if wearers often refuse to put on shoes due to lack of habit).
Accommodations in Kathmandu
In Kathmandu, you will accommodate in a hotel. We use different hotels depending on availability. The two preferred hotels are:
Hotel Ramada: Located in the heart of Thamel, this hotel is ideal for walking the bustling streets of Kathmandu. The spacious rooms all have a bathroom, air conditioning, and Wi-Fi. A fully equipped and active dining room is available for all meals, and the breakfast buffet offers a wide choice of foods. The hotel offers currency exchange, laundry services, and luggage storage.
Sampada Garden: Located just 20 minutes on foot from Thamel and Durbar Square, this hotel is convenient for exploring Kathmandu. The rooms have all the necessary comforts for your stay: air conditioning, bathroom, and Wi-Fi. Breakfasts are served as a generous buffet. The hotel provides currency exchange, laundry services, and luggage storage.
Accommodation during the Manaslu Expedition
For camping, accommodation during the expedition: during the expedition, breakfasts, Lunch, and Dinner are prepared by the kitchen team. They are taken to the mess tent. additional energy food is provided. Purchased locally, they offer a more limited. You can, if you wish, bring some complementary cereal bars adapted to your taste.
For lodge accommodation: meals are prepared by the cooks of the lodge and are taken from the lodge's dining room.
Here is a typical one-day menu:
breakfast: eggs, toast or chapati, or Tibetan bread or pancakes, or pancakes, butter/jam, tea or coffee
Lunch: a main course, tea or coffee
Dinner: soup, main course, fruit (fresh or canned), tea or coffee
During the trek, tea or coffee is served with meals. Two cups per person are included. Apart from these included menus, other drinks and foodstuffs will be at your expense.
Water: provide tablets (Hydroclonazone, Micropur, or another type) to disinfect the water you put in your water bottle, depending on the source and on the advice of your guide. It is sometimes possible to buy purified water and refill your water bottle without having to buy bottled water. You can also buy mineral water in the cities (not included in the price) but its ecological balance is poor, as you know. Also, we do not recommend it.
Preparation for the Trek
Preparing for the trek requires several months of preparation with 4 to 6-hour walks every weekend for stamina and participating in a sport that required short periods of high exertion.
Medical check-up
Being in good health is essential to fully enjoy your Alpinist Club trip. If your last medical visit was more than four years ago, please get another general physical exam and tell your doctor the nature of your trip (climate, altitude, difficulty, etc.). The altitude also has the effect of reviving dental problems or other chronic pain, so getting a dental checkup is also prudent. If you are undertaking a high-altitude expedition, we advise you to consult a mountain medicine specialist.
Acute Mountain Sickness
This trip takes place at high altitudes, so some people may experience altitude-related discomforts like headaches, loss of appetite, and swelling of limbs. Most of these symptoms usually go away within a few days, but sometimes they can develop into a serious illness: pulmonary or cerebral edema. There are no preventive drugs for AMS. Diamox diuretic is often effective for symptomatic relief, but you should first check with your doctor to verify that it is not contraindicated for you. Think about it before you go.
Your Personal Trekking Gear
- woolen hat 1
- fleece hat 1
- T-shirt 3
- Thermal full t-shirt (base layer) 2
- Fleece jacket 2
- Down jacket
- light insulating wear (mid-layer) 1
- Gore-Tex jacket 1
- Thermal Trouser (base layer) 2
- Trekking trousers (flexible ) 2
- down pant 1
- Gore-Tex pants 1
- Gore-Tex gloves 1 pair
- thin/warm gloves 2pairs
- Rain punch 1
- woolen shock (thick) 3 pairs
- sandal 1
- camp shoes (sports shoes) 1
- Trekking boot 1
- sun /glacier glass (uv protect ) 2
- snow gaiter (also buy in Nepal ) 1
- sleeping bags or liners (if possible ) 1
- personal first aid
- pocket knife` 1
- washing soap, towel, tooth pest/ brush
- sun lotion enough +30 /50 & lip guard 1+1
- Trekking poles (u can buy in Nepal as well) 1 pair
- headlights, water bottles, Thermos 1+1+1
- books, a camera, playing car
Climbing gear
- summit suit
- summit boot
- Climbing helmet
- alpine boot
- crampons (good condition )and fit for alpine boot
- ATC Guide
- Ascender (jumar)
- screw gate carabineer
- open gate carabineer
- ice Axe normal
- ice screw 22m
- auxiliary cord 8m in length with 6mm diameter
- dynamic safety cord - 3m length with 8mm diameter
- harness
- tape sling- 180cm- 120 cm
