Ama Dablam (6812M) is a stunning and challenging Himalayan peak in the Everest region, renowned for its beauty and exposure. It's a coveted climb for enthusiasts, often tackled before or after larger expeditions like Everest. Prerequisite skills include experience with peaks like Lobuche East, Island Peak, Chulu West, and multi-pitch climbing skills up to grade 5-9+/5.10 a,b,c.

Our expedition from Lukla includes a cultural trek to base camp, then a climb featuring technical rock, snow, and ice routes, with breathtaking views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. Depending on conditions, we'll ascend via the South West ridge route, possibly setting up 2 or 3 camps. Ama Dablam was first summited in 1961 by a Silver Hut scientific expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

During our Ama Dablam adventure, we'll set up 2-3 camps and follow the safest path, the southwest ridge. First, we'll start at Base Camp, then trek up rocky terrain to Camp 1 at 5,807 meters (19,052 feet). From there, we'll use fixed ropes to cross solid rock and climb snowy, exposed ridges to reach Camp 2, also called the "YELLOW TOWER," at 6,200 meters (20,594 feet). This stage involves about 60-70 feet of vertical rock climbing and marks the more challenging and risky part of our journey.

Ama Dablam Expedition

From Days 12 to 19-20, we'll practice our climbing skills and do some rotations to get used to the area and help our bodies adjust to the altitude before the big summit push. During these rotations, we'll carry our gear to different camps and leave it there.

The route on Ama Dablam is very exposed, which makes for thrilling climbing, even though it's not as steep as you might think. People with moderate climbing experience can give it a shot. On summit day, we'll move between ice cliffs and follow a snowy ridge straight to the 6,810-meter peak. But be ready for a tough climb, as it's physically demanding and takes a long time to reach the top.

Once we check the safety and conditions of the serac (a block of glacial ice), we'll decide if we should set up Camp 3. If our lead Sherpa thinks the spot isn't safe, we'll try for the summit from Camp 2, starting early, like midnight or 1 am.