Course Level

This is an advanced training program rather than a beginner course. Participants should already be comfortable with basic crampon use, belaying, climbing knots, top-rope climbing, and rope handling.

Previous lead-climbing experience is helpful but not compulsory. The guide will assess each participant before introducing lead climbing or more demanding routes.

Technical Training

The course includes 7 full technical training days, normally around 5–7 hours per day.

Training may include:

• Advanced crampon and ice-tool technique
• Steep and vertical ice climbing
• Ice screw placement
• Lead climbing and lead belaying
• Ice anchors and V-thread systems
• Multi-pitch climbing
• Belay station management
• Rope management
• Rappelling and retreat techniques
• Basic self-rescue and hauling systems
• Route selection and ice assessment
• Climbing communication and risk management

The exact training program depends on ice conditions, weather, and participant ability.

Training Location

The main training area is around Humde, Manang, at approximately 3,300 m. During winter, natural waterfalls and watercourses freeze and create different types of ice formations suitable for technical practice.

The exact climbing site may change according to ice quality and safety.

Best Season

The best period for ice climbing in Manang is generally December to February, when temperatures are cold enough for reliable ice formation.

Winter conditions vary each year, so route selection is confirmed after the guide inspects the ice.

Accommodation

Accommodation is provided in:

• Hotel in Kathmandu
• Mountain lodges in Dharapani and Humde

Mountain lodges are comfortable but simple, especially during winter. Heating, hot water, and electricity may be limited in some places.

Meals

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are provided during the mountain portion of the program.

Meals are normally prepared at local lodges. Options may include rice, noodles, pasta, potatoes, soups, eggs, vegetables, and traditional Nepali dishes.

Transportation

The course uses overland transportation:

Kathmandu → Dharapani → Humde

and on return:

Humde → Dharapani → Kathmandu

Mountain roads can be rough, and driving times may change because of snow, road conditions, landslides, or local traffic.

IFMGA Mountain Guide

Technical training is supervised by an IFMGA Mountain Guide.

The guide is responsible for selecting suitable routes, assessing conditions, adjusting the training level, and making safety decisions throughout the course.

Equipment

Participants need proper winter climbing clothing and technical equipment, including mountaineering boots, crampons, helmet, harness, ice tools, gloves, and suitable cold-weather layers.

Technical group equipment such as ropes, ice screws, and anchor equipment is arranged according to the program.

Rental equipment can be discussed before departure if required.

Altitude and Acclimatization

Humde lies at approximately 3,300 m, so acclimatization is included before intensive training begins.

Participants should drink enough water, rest properly, and inform the guide immediately if they experience unusual headaches, dizziness, nausea, or other symptoms related to altitude.

Weather and Ice Conditions

Ice climbing depends heavily on temperature and weather. Warm periods, snowfall, strong sun, or changing water flow can affect the quality of frozen waterfalls.

For this reason, a specific route can never be guaranteed in advance. The IFMGA guide may change the climbing area or training plan whenever necessary.

Travel Insurance

Participants should have travel insurance covering:

• High-altitude activities
• Technical climbing
• Medical treatment
• Emergency evacuation
• Trip cancellation or interruption

It is important to confirm that ice climbing is specifically covered by the insurance policy.

Safety

Safety takes priority over completing a particular route or training objective.

Weather, ice quality, road conditions, participant fitness, and technical ability are considered before every climbing session. The guide has final authority to change, shorten, or cancel an activity when conditions are unsuitable.

Course Objective

The purpose of the course is not simply to climb harder ice. It is to help participants become more efficient, technically aware, and confident when dealing with real ice-climbing situations.

By the end of the program, participants should have a stronger understanding of movement, protection, anchors, multi-pitch systems, rope management, retreat techniques, and decision-making on ice.