1. Expedition Guide and Support Team

Your safety and overall expedition experience are our priorities. From your arrival in Kathmandu until your departure, the Alpinist Club team coordinates the expedition, provides guidance, and manages the logistics.

Our Nepalese team includes experienced guides, high-altitude climbing Sherpas, porters, and Base Camp staff, each with specific responsibilities.

Expedition Leader: Oversees the expedition, coordinates logistics, manages acclimatization schedules, reviews weather forecasts, and determines appropriate timing for climbing activities. The expedition leader's safety decisions must be respected by all participants.

High-Altitude Climbing Sherpa: Each participant receives dedicated 1:1 climbing Sherpa support during climbing rotations and the summit attempt. Your Sherpa assists with technical climbing, fixed ropes, high-altitude movement, and the summit push.

Sirdar or Trekking Team Leader: Coordinates the trekking team, manages staff and porters, and oversees the smooth operation of the approach trek.

Base Camp Kitchen Team: Prepares meals and manages kitchen operations throughout the expedition.

Porters and High-Altitude Carriers: Transport personal baggage and collective expedition equipment along the approach route and assist with moving equipment to higher camps as required.

The expedition leader may adjust, delay, or cancel activities if weather, health, fitness, or mountain conditions require it. Individual participants may be asked to stop climbing or descend if continuing would put their safety at risk.

2. High-Altitude Climbing Sherpa Support

Alpinist Club provides one high-altitude climbing Sherpa per participant (1:1 ratio) during climbing rotations and the summit attempt.

Your climbing Sherpa is selected for high-altitude experience and technical climbing ability. Their responsibilities include assisting with fixed ropes, supporting safe movement on the mountain, helping establish high camps, and accompanying you during the summit push.

Depending on the climbing schedule and logistical requirements, your Sherpa may also carry equipment between camps rather than remain beside you throughout every rotation.

Summit Bonus: The climbing Sherpa summit bonus is not included in the expedition package price. The recommended minimum bonus is USD 800 per climbing Sherpa, payable according to the expedition agreement.

3. Physical Fitness and Technical Difficulty

Expedition Grade: Strenuous / Moderately Technical

Himlung Himal reaches 7,126 m and is an excellent objective for experienced mountaineers seeking to develop their high-altitude climbing experience. However, no mountain above 7,000 m should be considered easy.

The main challenges include:

• Extreme altitude and reduced oxygen availability.
• Long climbing days and demanding summit attempts.
• Cold temperatures and strong winds.
• Snow-covered slopes and crevassed glacier terrain.
• Fixed-rope climbing and steeper snow or ice sections.
• Carrying personal equipment at high altitude.
• Spending multiple days above 5,000 m and 6,000 m.

Previous mountaineering experience is essential. Participants should be confident using crampons, an ice axe, a climbing harness, an ascender, and fixed ropes. Experience moving as part of a roped climbing team is strongly recommended.

Good physical fitness, endurance, sound judgment, and gradual acclimatization are equally important for a successful expedition.

4. Physical Preparation

Physical preparation should begin several months before arriving in Nepal. Climbers should focus on cardiovascular endurance, leg strength, balance, and the ability to perform consecutive days of strenuous activity. Regular mountain hikes, stair climbing, strength training, and practice with essential mountaineering equipment can help build the fitness and confidence needed for the expedition. The goal is not only to reach the summit but also to maintain enough energy and strength to descend safely.

5. Acclimatization and Climbing Strategy

Proper acclimatization is essential for climbing Himlung Himal (7,126 m). The expedition allows climbers to adjust gradually to increasing altitude through trekking in the Nar Phu Valley, acclimatizing around Phu Village, resting at Base Camp, and completing planned climbing rotations between high camps. The expedition leader monitors participants’ health, weather forecasts, and mountain conditions before approving the summit attempt. The schedule may change depending on individual health, weather, and route conditions. Although acclimatization reduces the risk of altitude sickness, it cannot eliminate it.

6. Accommodation in Kathmandu, During the Trek, and at Base Camp

Kathmandu Hotel

Accommodation is provided in a 4-star hotel in Kathmandu, based on a single room with breakfast, as specified in the package.

Four hotel nights are included in the standard package. Additional nights resulting from early arrival, late departure, or itinerary changes may incur extra charges.

Trekking Accommodation

During the approach and return trek, you will stay in local teahouses or mountain lodges.

Accommodation standards vary by village. Rooms may be twin, triple, or dormitory-style, depending on availability. Toilets and showers are generally shared, and hot showers may incur additional charges.

Himlung Himal Base Camp

Each participant receives an individual sleeping tent equipped with a mattress and pillow.

Base Camp facilities include:

• Heated dining tent when conditions require.
• Kitchen tent and dedicated kitchen team.
• Toilet and shower tents.
• Communication and storage facilities.
• Tables, chairs, and cooking equipment.
• Solar power and/or generator facilities.

Base Camp is organized to provide a practical and comfortable place to rest, eat, prepare equipment, and recover between climbing rotations.

High-Altitude Camps

At higher camps, accommodation is provided in expedition tents, generally shared by two climbers and sometimes three at the highest camps, depending on conditions and available equipment.

High-camp facilities include sleeping tents, cooking stoves, fuel, and essential climbing equipment.

7. Hygiene and Personal Care

Toilets: Toilet facilities are available at Base Camp. At higher camps, facilities are basic, and climbers should follow the expedition team's instructions for waste management.

Handwashing: Bring personal hand sanitizer and use it after using the toilet and before eating.

Showers: Hot water may be available at Base Camp on request, depending on conditions and supplies. Keep showers brief and avoid becoming chilled.

Laundry: Washing facilities may be available at Base Camp. Bring biodegradable washing products and follow the team's guidance for wastewater disposal.

Personal Hygiene: Bring toiletries, sunscreen, lip balm, and any other personal care products you require.

8. Meals During the Expedition

Meals in Kathmandu

The package includes breakfast at the Kathmandu hotel, along with one welcome dinner and one farewell dinner with the Alpinist Club team.

Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu are generally at your own expense, except for the dinners specifically included in the itinerary.

Meals During the Trek

Three meals are provided daily: breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Tea or coffee is included with meals according to the package arrangements.

A typical daily menu may include:

• Breakfast: Eggs, toast, chapati, Tibetan bread or pancakes, butter, jam, tea, or coffee.
• Lunch: A main meal, with tea or coffee.
• Dinner: Soup, a main course, fruit when available, and tea or coffee.

Lunch may be served as a packed meal or a hot meal, depending on the day's route and available facilities.

Meals at Base Camp

The Base Camp kitchen team prepares breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks, tea, coffee, and available non-alcoholic drinks.

Meals generally include rice, pasta, lentils, potatoes, vegetables, eggs, and meat when available. The kitchen team aims to provide nutritious meals to support recovery and energy needs throughout the expedition.

Meals at High Camps

At higher elevations, freeze-dried meals and other lightweight expedition foods are used because cooking facilities and supplies are limited.

Each high-altitude camp is equipped with a cooking stove and fuel for preparing meals, melting snow, and making hot drinks.

Participants should inform Alpinist Club of dietary requirements and food preferences in advance. Bringing a few favorite snacks or personal high-energy foods is also recommended.

9. Hydration and Water Purification

Staying hydrated is important during high-altitude trekking and climbing. Bring reusable water bottles or a hydration system, together with suitable water purification tablets or a reliable filtration method. Follow your guide's advice regarding the treatment of water from different sources.

Purified drinking water may be available during the trek and at Base Camp, depending on the location and facilities. Bottled water and some additional drinks may incur extra charges.Consider bringing electrolyte or mineral replacement products suitable for your needs. Consult a healthcare professional about appropriate hydration and electrolyte strategies for high-altitude activity.

10. Transportation and Baggage

All scheduled transfers are arranged according to the expedition itinerary.

The journey generally begins with a drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar, followed by onward transportation to Koto. The approach to Himlung Himal Base Camp is completed on foot through the Nar Phu Valley, allowing gradual acclimatization.

The return journey is also planned as a trek followed by ground transportation. A helicopter return may be arranged at additional cost, subject to availability, weather, and operational conditions.

Baggage Allowance

Up to 40 kg of personal expedition baggage per member is transported between Koto and Base Camp by porters and/or yaks, as required.

Collective expedition equipment is transported by the Nepalese support team. Participants are responsible for carrying their personal daypack and the items they need during each trekking or climbing stage. During the trek, aim to keep your daypack to approximately 10–12 kg, adjusting the load according to the day's requirements.

11. Group Size

The expedition generally accommodates 1–10 participants, depending on the departure. A limited group size allows more flexibility, better coordination, and a more personal expedition experience. Private groups may be accommodated subject to availability and logistical arrangements.

The group size does not change the agreed 1:1 climbing Sherpa support for each participant.

12. Collective Expedition Equipment

Alpinist Club provides the collective logistical equipment required for the expedition.

This includes:

• Individual sleeping tents and mattresses at Base Camp.
• Dining, kitchen, toilet, shower, and storage tents.
• Tables, chairs, and cooking equipment.
• High-altitude tents.
• Cooking stoves and fuel for high camps.
• Group climbing equipment and ropes as specified in the package.
• Communication and essential safety equipment.

Personal clothing, footwear, and individual mountaineering equipment are not included unless specifically stated in the package.

13. Personal Climbing Equipment

Participants must bring suitable personal trekking and mountaineering equipment for a 7,126 m expedition.

Technical Climbing Equipment

• High-altitude mountaineering boots.
• Compatible crampons.
• Mountaineering ice axe.
• Climbing harness and helmet.
• Jumar or ascender.
• Descender.
• Locking and non-locking carabiners.
• Safety sling or cow's tail.
• Trekking poles.

High-Altitude Clothing

Expedition down suit or suitable high-altitude clothing system.

• Heavy down jacket, if required by your clothing system.
• Waterproof shell jacket and trousers.
• Insulated trousers.
• Expedition mittens and warm climbing gloves.
• Lightweight gloves.
• Thermal base layers and insulating mid-layers.
• High-altitude socks.
• Balaclava and warm hat.
• Sun hat.

Eye Protection

• Category 4 glacier sunglasses.
• High-quality mountaineering goggles.
• Spare sunglasses, recommended.

Sleeping Equipment

• Expedition sleeping bag suitable for approximately −30°C to −40°C conditions.
• Sleeping-bag liner.
• Personal sleeping mat, if preferred.

Backpacks and Bags

• 50–70 L climbing backpack.
• Expedition duffel bag.
• Waterproof dry bags.
• Small stuff sacks.

Alpinist Club can advise you on the equipment required during the preparation process. Selected high-altitude equipment may be available for rent, subject to availability and rental conditions.

14. Safety and Emergency Communication

High-altitude mountaineering involves inherent risks, and no expedition operator can eliminate every danger. Alpinist Club emphasizes preparation, acclimatization, communication, and careful decision-making.

Expedition safety arrangements include:

• Experienced expedition leadership.
• Dedicated 1:1 high-altitude climbing Sherpa support.
• Professional mountain weather forecasts.
• Radio communication between Base Camp and climbing teams.
• Satellite communication, satellite phone support as specified in the package.
• A group medical and first-aid kit.
• Emergency oxygen at Base Camp.
• A hyperbaric chamber at Base Camp, as specified in the expedition arrangements.
• Planned acclimatization rotations and flexible summit scheduling.

The expedition leader may change, delay, or cancel climbing activities when weather, health, or mountain conditions make it necessary.

Safety always comes before reaching the summit.

15. Medical Check-Up and Altitude Sickness

Good health is essential for participating in the Himlung Himal Expedition. Before travelling, arrange a medical check-up and explain the altitude, physical demands, and technical requirements of the expedition to your doctor. Consultation with a qualified mountain-medicine specialist is recommended. A dental check-up is also advisable before departure, as dental problems can become more difficult to manage in remote mountain environments.

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)

At high altitude, some people develop symptoms such as headaches, nausea, loss of appetite, dizziness, unusual fatigue, or disturbed sleep. More serious altitude illnesses, including high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE), can be life-threatening.

Participants must report symptoms promptly to the expedition leader or climbing Sherpa. Severe or worsening symptoms require immediate medical assessment and may require descent or evacuation. Do not continue ascending when experiencing symptoms that could indicate altitude illness. Medication such as acetazolamide (Diamox) should only be used following appropriate medical advice.

16. Travel and Rescue Insurance

Comprehensive travel and mountaineering insurance is mandatory.

Your policy must explicitly cover:

• Mountaineering up to at least 7,126 m.
• High-altitude trekking and climbing.
• Emergency helicopter evacuation.
• Medical treatment and hospitalization.
• Emergency repatriation.
• Trip cancellation and interruption.

Many standard travel insurance policies exclude high-altitude mountaineering or impose altitude limits. Check your policy carefully and ensure it covers the specific activities and elevation of the Himlung Himal Expedition.

Participants are responsible for arranging suitable insurance before travelling.

17. Final Preparation

Successful preparation involves more than physical training. Participants should also become familiar with their equipment, understand the risks of high-altitude climbing, and prepare for changing weather and demanding mountain conditions.

Before departure, Alpinist Club will help clarify equipment requirements, expedition arrangements, and practical preparation needs.

Arrive in Nepal ready to work as part of a team, follow the expedition leader's instructions, and remain flexible when conditions require changes to the schedule.

The objective is not only to reach the summit of Himlung Himal, but to complete the expedition responsibly and return safely.