Saipal Himal Expedition – 7,030 m

The Saipal Himal Expedition (7,030 m) is an adventurous mountaineering journey to one of the remote peaks of western Nepal. This expedition offers experienced climbers an opportunity to explore pristine Himalayan landscapes, traditional mountain villages, and challenging high-altitude terrain far from Nepal’s busy trekking routes.

The journey begins in Kathmandu, followed by flights to Nepalgunj and Simikot. From Simikot, the team treks through remote villages, beautiful valleys, and rugged mountain landscapes to reach Saipal Base Camp. After acclimatization and climbing preparations, the expedition progresses through higher camps toward the summit, depending on weather and mountain conditions.

Organized by Alpinist Club, the expedition includes experienced climbing Sherpas, logistical support, and carefully planned acclimatization. Saipal Himal is an excellent choice for experienced mountaineers seeking a challenging and less-traveled Himalayan adventure in the heart of western Nepal.

  • Climb Saipal Himal (7,030 m): Take on a challenging Himalayan mountaineering objective.
  • Explore Remote Western Nepal: Discover the secluded landscapes of the Saipal Himalayan region.
  • Experience Authentic Mountain Culture: Visit traditional Himalayan villages and experience local hospitality.
  • Trek Through Untouched Landscapes: Explore alpine meadows, forests, glacial terrain, and dramatic mountain valleys.
  • Professional Expedition Support: Benefit from experienced climbing Sherpas, organized base camp logistics, and planned acclimatization.

Itinerary

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Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, our representative will welcome you and transfer you to your hotel. Meet the Alpinist Club team, settle in, and enjoy a welcome dinner before beginning your expedition.

  • Altitude: 1,400 m
  • Activity: Airport pickup and hotel transfer
  • Accommodation: Hotel
  • Meals: Dinner

Complete the necessary expedition formalities and attend the official briefing with the relevant Nepalese authorities. Your team will review the expedition plan, inspect climbing equipment, and arrange any additional gear required. You will also have time to purchase last-minute supplies and explore Kathmandu.

  • Altitude: 1,400 m
  • Activity: Official formalities, expedition briefing, and equipment checks
  • Accommodation: Hotel
  • Meals: Breakfast

Take a domestic flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, a lowland city in southwestern Nepal. After arrival, check into your hotel and prepare for the onward flight to Simikot.

  • Altitude: 150 m
  • Activity: Domestic flight
  • Accommodation: Hotel
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

Take a scenic mountain flight to Simikot, the administrative center of Humla District. After arrival, settle into your accommodation, explore the local surroundings, and begin adjusting to the higher altitude.

  • Altitude: 2,818 m
  • Activity: Approximately 45-minute flight
  • Accommodation: Teahouse
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

Begin your trekking journey from Simikot toward Dharapani. Follow mountain trails through rugged terrain and remote settlements, enjoying views of the surrounding hills and valleys as you gradually gain altitude.

  • Altitude: 3,260 m
  • Walking Duration: Approximately 6 hours
  • Accommodation: Teahouse
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

Continue through the remote landscapes of Humla, ascending along mountain trails toward Yuwang, also known as Yalbang. Enjoy views of the surrounding mountains and experience the traditional lifestyle of local Himalayan communities.

  • Altitude: 3,860 m
  • Walking Duration: Approximately 7 hours
  • Accommodation: Teahouse
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

Continue trekking through quiet mountain landscapes toward Chola/Choila. This section provides an opportunity to experience the region's remote wilderness while allowing your body to adjust to the altitude.

  • Altitude: Approximately 3,800 m
  • Walking Duration: Approximately 4–5 hours
  • Accommodation: Teahouse or tented camp, depending on availability
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

Follow the trail north along the Karang Khola toward Kairang. The route becomes increasingly remote as you approach the Saipal Himal region. Upon arrival, settle into camp and prepare for the final approach to Base Camp.

  • Altitude: To be confirmed
  • Walking Duration: Approximately 6 hours
  • Accommodation: Tented camp
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

Continue toward Saipal Base Camp, surrounded by dramatic Himalayan scenery. After reaching Base Camp, meet the climbing team, organize expedition equipment, and prepare for the upcoming acclimatization and climbing period.

  • Altitude: 4,800 m
  • Walking Duration: Approximately 6 hours
  • Accommodation: Tented camp
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

Spend this period acclimatizing, completing climbing rotations, and preparing for the summit attempt. Your climbing team will establish and use higher camps as required by the route and conditions. Summit plans will depend on weather, snow conditions, climber health, and the team's assessment of safety.

After the summit attempt, return to Base Camp and prepare for the descent.

  • Maximum Elevation: 7,031 m
  • Activity: Acclimatization, climbing rotations, and summit attempt
  • Accommodation: Tented camps at Base Camp and higher camps
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

Begin the descent from Saipal Base Camp toward Labuk Depsa. Retrace the mountain trails through the remote Himalayan landscape, enjoying the scenery as you gradually lose altitude.

  • Altitude: To be confirmed
  • Walking Duration: Approximately 6 hours
  • Accommodation: Teahouse or tented camp, depending on availability
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

Continue descending toward Chala Village or Yalbang. As you return to lower elevations, the landscape gradually changes, with more villages and opportunities to experience local life.

  • Altitude: Approximately 3,860 m if staying in Yalbang
  • Walking Duration: Approximately 7 hours
  • Accommodation: Teahouse
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

Continue along the mountain trails toward Kermi. Enjoy the changing scenery and the quieter pace of the return journey as you make your way through Humla's remote settlements.

  • Altitude: To be confirmed
  • Walking Duration: Approximately 7 hours
  • Accommodation: Teahouse
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

Continue trekking toward Maj Gaon through mountain villages and scenic valleys. Reflect on your expedition experience as you approach the final stages of the journey back to Simikot.

  • Altitude: To be confirmed
  • Walking Duration: Approximately 7 hours
  • Accommodation: Teahouse
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

Complete the trekking section of your expedition by returning to Simikot. After arriving, settle into your accommodation and enjoy a well-earned rest following your journey through the remote Saipal Himal region.

  • Altitude: 2,818 m
  • Walking Duration: Approximately 5 hours
  • Accommodation: Teahouse
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

Take a flight from Simikot to Nepalgunj, followed by a connecting flight to Kathmandu. Upon arrival, transfer to your hotel and enjoy time to rest after completing the expedition.

  • Altitude: 1,400 m in Kathmandu
  • Activity: Domestic flights via Nepalgunj
  • Accommodation: Hotel
  • Meals: Breakfast and Lunch

Enjoy a free day in Kathmandu to relax, explore the city's cultural landmarks, or shop for souvenirs. In the evening, celebrate the completion of your Saipal Himal Expedition with your team.

  • Altitude: 1,400 m
  • Activity: Rest, sightseeing, or shopping
  • Accommodation: Hotel
  • Meals: Breakfast and Dinner

Your Saipal Himal Expedition concludes today. At the appropriate time, our representative will transfer you to Tribhuvan International Airport for your international departure. We hope you leave Nepal with unforgettable memories of your Himalayan adventure.

  • Activity: Airport transfer
  • Meals: Breakfast

Everest Very High altitude Note:

If you have a private group and prefer a personalized experience, we can organize a custom trip tailored to your requirements and group size, running it any day you choose.

Plan a Private Trip

Included & Excluded

Included Points

Arrival and departure : Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by private vehicle.
Hotel accommodation in kathmandu : 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) - single room on bed and breakfast plan.
Welcome dinner : One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office’s Staff.
Permits : Expedition Royalty and a permit fee from the Nepal Government to climb Mt. Saipal Himal, Saipal conservation area, and Rural Municipality entry permit and fee.
License officer : 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
Garbage management : Stool Shipment Transfer and Garbage Deposit fees.
Insurance : Medical and Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
Map : Trekking and climbing map.
Duffle bag : One Alpinist club Duffle Bag.
Member transportation : (Domestic Flight) Fly from Nepalgunj – Simikot and Simikot - Nepalgunj, as per itinerary.
Expedition stuffs transportation : All necessary expedition equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj- Simikot (by air cargo) and Base camp (by Porters ) – While returning: Base camp to Simkot (by porters / Yak) and Nepalgunj to Kathmandu (by air cargo).
Member luggage : Up to 40 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or Yaks.
Food and lodging : 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at the Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fruits, and soft drinks will be served during the entire expedition using flights. Well-managed base camp set up for members and Staff.
Porter : Porters per member up to the Base camp and from the Basecamp (both ways).
Base camp staff : Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook and kitchen Helpers as required.
Staff salary and allowance : All Nepalese staff and porters' daily wages, salary, equipment, food and clothing.
Base camp tent : Each member will have an individual tent in Base Camp.
Base camp equipment : Single Tent, foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dining Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet and 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staff Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tents, Tables and chairs, and all necessary cooking gears.
Heater : Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
Solar/Generator/Light : 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, laptop, and other electronic devices.
Training : Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and gear training at Basecamp by Sherpa Guide.
High altitude climbing sherpa : 1 government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.
Assistance : Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
Climbing sherpa salary and allowance : Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.
Bonus : Carry Bonus of Sherpas and Route Fixing Charges.
Oxygen bottle (O2) : Oxygen bottles will be in stock at base camp in case of an emergency (with an appropriate charge).
Oxygen mask and regulator : 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks will be in base camp in case of an emergency.
High camp service (Infrastructure and logistics) : High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) and (C3). Group climbing gears, and fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
High altitude tent : Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
Rope fixing team : The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the rope and the route.
Satellite phone : Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with an appropriate charge.
Walkie - talkie : Walkie Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
Weather forecast : Weather forecast report during the entire expedition.
Medical kit : Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
Certificate : Saipal Himal climbing certificate(After climbing Saipal Himal successfully).

Excluded Points

Airfare : International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
Nepal entry visa fee : The Nepalese Visa fee is $ 125 USD for 90 Days.
Lunch and dinner : Lunch and dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
Extra nights in kathmandu : Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
Insurance policy : Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high altitude rescue and air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory
Personal expenses : Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
Personal climbing equipment : Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.
Filming : Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
Internet service : Not included during the trek and the expedition.
Tips : Calculate some tips for Basecamp and high camp staff – Minimum 350 USD.
Extra : Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary and other items not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.

Trip Information

Saipal Himal Expedition 

The Saipal Himal Expedition (7,031 m) is a challenging adventure in the remote far-western Himalayas of Nepal. Alpinist Club provides an experienced Nepalese support team, camping accommodation, and freshly prepared meals throughout the expedition. Participants should have excellent physical fitness, previous mountaineering experience, and proper high-altitude preparation. Medical check-ups, acclimatization, and comprehensive insurance covering high-altitude climbing and helicopter evacuation are essential.

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1. Expedition Team and Leadership

Throughout the Saipal Himal Expedition, your team will be supported by experienced Nepalese guides, climbing Sherpas, cooks, and porters. The expedition leader coordinates the team, manages daily activities, and prioritizes the safety and well-being of all participants.

Please follow your guide's instructions, particularly during high-altitude trekking and climbing. Weather, terrain, and individual health may require changes to the planned itinerary. The expedition leader may adjust the schedule when necessary to protect the safety of the entire team. 

Your Nepalese Support Team
  • Expedition Leader (Sirdar): Oversees the Nepalese support team, coordinates logistics, and manages daily operations.
  • Climbing Sherpas: Experienced high-altitude mountaineers who provide technical climbing support, assist with fixed ropes and higher camps, and accompany climbers during the ascent according to the expedition plan.
  • Cook: Prepares meals for the team during the camping and expedition stages.
  • Kitchen Assistants: Help prepare meals, manage supplies, and maintain kitchen facilities at Base Camp.
  • Assistant Guides: Support the expedition leader, assist members during trekking, and help manage camps and daily logistics.
  • Porters and Yak Handlers: Transport personal baggage, food, and expedition equipment along the trekking route and to Base Camp, where local conditions permit.

 

Baggage Allowance and Staff Welfare

The baggage allowance depends on the type of trip and transportation arrangements:

Mountaineering expeditions: Up to 60 kg per person, subject to the specific expedition arrangements.

For this expedition, the confirmed baggage allowance is up to 50 kg per member, as specified in the package inclusions. Please confirm with Alpinist Club how this allowance is distributed between personal baggage and climbing equipment.

Alpinist Club arranges insurance for its Nepalese guides, porters, and other staff according to the applicable requirements. Appropriate clothing and equipment are provided for staff working in cold and high-altitude conditions.

2. Accommodation in Kathmandu

During your stay in Kathmandu, you will be accommodated in a comfortable hotel, subject to availability.

3. Accommodation During the Expedition

Camping and Base Camp Accommodation

The Saipal Himal Expedition involves remote trekking and high-altitude climbing, where accommodation facilities are limited.

During camping stages, you will stay in tents. At Base Camp, individual sleeping tents are provided for members, together with dining, kitchen, toilet, and other necessary facilities.

At higher camps, accommodation is more basic, with two members sharing a tent where required. Facilities and comfort decrease with increasing altitude.

Teahouse and Lodge Accommodation

Where lodges or teahouses are available, accommodation is generally simple and comfortable, with basic rooms and shared facilities depending on the location.

During the expedition, the itinerary may combine lodge accommodation with camping, depending on the route and availability.

4. Meals and Drinking Water

Meals During the Expedition

Alpinist Club provides three meals daily during the trek and expedition, including breakfast, lunch, and dinner, along with tea and coffee as specified in the package.

During camping stages, the expedition cook and kitchen team prepare meals at camp. At higher elevations, meals are planned to provide sufficient energy for trekking and climbing.

A typical daily menu includes:

  • Breakfast: Eggs, toast, chapati, Tibetan bread, or pancakes with butter, jam, tea, or coffee.
  • Lunch: A main meal, with tea or coffee.
  • Dinner: Soup, a main course, fruit when available, and tea or coffee.

Menus may vary depending on food availability, altitude, and weather conditions. Additional snacks and energy bars can be brought from home to suit your personal preferences.

Drinking Water

Safe hydration is essential during high-altitude trekking and climbing. Carry a reusable water bottle and suitable water purification tablets or a filter.

Your guide will advise you on safe water sources and appropriate treatment methods. Boiled or purified water may be available at certain locations. Bottled water and additional drinks purchased along the route are generally at your own expense unless otherwise specified.

5. Physical Preparation and Fitness

The Saipal Himal Expedition is a demanding high-altitude mountaineering adventure that requires excellent physical fitness, mental resilience, and previous mountaineering experience. We recommend starting a structured training program several months before departure, focusing on regular hiking with a backpack, cardiovascular exercise, and strength and endurance training. Practice walking on steep, uneven terrain while carrying a load, and develop the technical skills needed for high-altitude climbing. Previous experience with crampons, ice axes, fixed ropes, glacier travel, and high-altitude expeditions is strongly recommended.

6. Medical Check-Up and Health Preparation

A medical check-up before departure is strongly recommended to ensure you are fit for the Saipal Himal Expedition. Discuss the physical demands, remote conditions, extreme cold, and high altitude with your doctor. If you have any existing medical conditions or take regular medication, consult a physician experienced in high-altitude medicine.

We also recommend a dental check-up before departure, as dental problems can be difficult to treat in remote mountain areas. Bring sufficient supplies of your personal medications and inform the expedition leader of any medical conditions or concerns that could affect your safety during the expedition.

7. Travel and Expedition Insurance

All participants must have comprehensive travel insurance that covers high-altitude mountaineering on Saipal Himal (7,031 m), emergency medical treatment, and helicopter evacuation at the planned altitude. Ensure your policy covers the full expedition period and any necessary rescue or repatriation costs. Participants are responsible for arranging their own insurance and carrying proof of coverage during the expedition.

8. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)

The Saipal Himal Expedition reaches extreme altitudes, increasing the risk of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE), and High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). Symptoms may include headache, nausea, dizziness, fatigue, and difficulty sleeping.

To reduce the risk, follow the acclimatization schedule, stay hydrated, and inform your guide immediately if you feel unwell. Consult a qualified medical professional before using altitude sickness medication such as Diamox.

Important: Safety comes first. If altitude sickness or weather conditions become dangerous, climbers may be required to stop ascending or descend to a lower altitude.

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Frequently Asked Questions

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Yes, you need to acquire permits to climb Saipal Himal. You need to acquire a climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA ) and the Department of Tourism. You also need to obtain a restricted area permit from the Humla district and a Conservation area permit from Khaptad National Park.

The perfect season to climb Saipal Himal is during the spring and the fall. These seasons provide the optimal conditions for the climbers. In spring ( April to May), the weather is stable with clear skies and moderate temperatures making it an appropriate for the climbers. The autumn i.e September to November is another suitable month for the expedition.

The expedition is difficult due to its remote location and steep terrain. You must have a certain level of mountaineering skills to face these technical challenges. There is a risk of altitude sickness due to high altitude, so effective acclimatization is crucial.  It would help if you faced weather challenges as abrupt changes might increase the risk of the ascent.

You will face technical difficulties during this expedition. Difficulties such as crevassed glaciers, navigating steep rock faces, and icy slopes. You need to have prior experience in mountaineering skills and be able to use equipment such as crampons, ice axes, ropes, and harnesses. Other technical skills such as belaying, rope handling, and self-arrest techniques must be needed.

It is not necessary to have a lot of experience for this expedition but the prior basic mountaineering skills. A guide with years of experience will lead you first. The members will instruct the climbers on roped climbing and descending procedures because they are knowledgeable in this field. While prior experience is unnecessary, you must be in good physical health and shape.

Safety is the essential factor to be taken into consideration while ascending Saipal Himal. We, the Alpinist Club will make sure to implement all the safety measures to ensure the well-being of every climber during the expedition. We will follow in-depth safety measures training sessions, an expert guide well equipped with wilderness first aid training to. We will use emergency communication tools like satellite phones or radios, and emergency evacuation plans. It is advisable to carry your own personal safety equipment such as first aid kits, GPS devices, and emergency shelters.

The Saipal Himal Expedition can be done through two standard route. The two standard routes are the Southern route and the Northern route. We will be following the Southern route from the Simikot in the Humla district.

The completion of the expedition depends on various factors such as weather conditions, routes, and the physical fitness of the climbers.

During camping our cook will make delicious food to provide you with all the strength and stamina required for the expedition. Our porters will carry all the basic cooking essentials.

The climbers should pack all the essential gear and equipment. Climbing gear such as harnesses, helmets, crampons, and ice axes, climbing equipment such as sleeping bags, tents, and sleeping pads, personal items such as sunscreen, toiletries, and emergency supplies like a first aid kit, navigation tools, and map. You can check all the other essentials in the expedition provided by us in the packing list.

Our Sherpa and climbing guide are authorized license holders by the Nepal Government. They have years of experience and knowledge. They have conducted many expeditions and most of them have the successful result. They are well aware of the climbing route and use their expertise to ensure the safety of the climbers.

Alpinist Club makes sure to take safety and security measures for the successful expedition. We have authorized and experienced guides/Sherpa to safeguard life of the climbers. You must follow the guide's instructions for the successful summit.

You must have your insurance before taking this expedition. There is a high chance of risks such as altitude sickness, dehydration, or any health conditions. If you face any kind of health issue you must inform your guide. The guide will immediately take action. The team will send an emergency helicopter rescue team and you will be transferred to the hospital.

For lower-altitude trekking pants and active wear is needed. As you ascend at higher altitudes you will need to have a lightweight water proof jacket, thick down jacket, pants, and thermal innerwear. You must pack good quality shoes for climbing in rough terrain. For mountaineering, you will need special clothes.