1:1 High-Altitude Sherpa Support

Each participant is supported by one experienced high-altitude Sherpa, giving the expedition a 1:1 climber-to-Sherpa ratio.

Your climbing Sherpa provides support during the most important stages of the ascent, particularly the higher rotations and summit push.

Our high-altitude Sherpas are selected for their experience on major Himalayan expeditions, including previous climbs above 8,000 meters.

Their responsibilities include:

• Supporting the climber during higher rotations
• Assisting during the summit push
• Helping establish and maintain high camps
• Carrying collective expedition equipment
• Assisting with oxygen systems
• Supporting route and safety management

Your Sherpa may not remain beside you during every acclimatization rotation, as he may also be involved in carrying loads and preparing higher camps.

High-Altitude Sherpa Summit Bonus

A summit bonus is payable directly to your high-altitude Sherpa in cash.

The bonus becomes due once the climber begins the official summit attempt from the final high camp, regardless of whether the summit is ultimately reached.

The applicable amount will be explained before the expedition.

Expedition Leader

The expedition leader is responsible for the overall climbing strategy and coordination of the expedition.

Important responsibilities include:

• Planning acclimatization rotations
• Monitoring the progress of each climber
• Coordinating high camps and logistics
• Reviewing professional weather forecasts
• Selecting suitable summit windows
• Coordinating Sherpas, Base Camp staff, and climbing teams
• Making safety and emergency decisions
• The expedition leader normally operates from Base Camp but may travel to higher camps when required.

All participants must respect decisions made by the expedition leader regarding weather, route conditions, health, acclimatization, and safety.

Porter and Support Team

A Himalayan expedition requires a large support team working behind the scenes.

Local porters transport expedition equipment, food, tents, kitchen equipment, and supplies during the approach to Manaslu Base Camp.

At Base Camp, our expedition team includes:

• Expedition leader
• High-altitude Sherpas
• Base Camp manager/support staff
• Professional kitchen team
• Local porters
• Additional logistics staff when required

Above Base Camp, high-altitude Sherpas assist with establishing camps and transporting collective climbing equipment.

Personal Loads

Each climber remains responsible for carrying their personal climbing equipment, clothing, snacks, water, and other personal items.

During climbing rotations, your backpack may normally weigh approximately 10–12 kg, depending on the stage of the expedition.

During the summit push, climbers should normally expect to carry approximately 6–8 kg, which may include an oxygen cylinder.

Manaslu Climbing Difficulty

Physical Level: Extreme

Climbing Manaslu is an extremely demanding high-altitude expedition.

Although the normal route is considered less technically difficult than some other 8,000-meter peaks, the combination of:

• Extreme altitude
• Cold
• Strong winds
• Long climbing days
• Glacier travel
• Fixed ropes
• Heavy equipment
• Limited recovery
• Several weeks at altitude

makes Manaslu a serious mountaineering objective.

Participants should already have good mountaineering experience and preferably previous experience on 6,000m or 7,000m mountains.

Climbers must be physically fit, mentally prepared, and capable of operating independently in a high-altitude mountain environment.

Your Sherpa and expedition leader provide support and technical advice, but they cannot physically carry or pull an exhausted or inadequately prepared climber to the summit.

Training for Manaslu

Specific physical preparation should ideally begin 6–8 months before departure.

Recommended activities include:

• Long-distance hiking
• Running
• Cycling
• Swimming
• Stair climbing
• Strength training
• Ski touring
• Mountaineering
• Long hikes carrying a backpack

Training should focus especially on endurance, leg strength, cardiovascular fitness, recovery, and mental resilience.

High Altitude

Altitude is one of the greatest challenges of climbing Manaslu.

Above 8,000 meters, atmospheric oxygen is only a fraction of that available at sea level. The body therefore requires careful and gradual acclimatization.

Our expedition schedule includes trekking to Base Camp and several rotations to higher camps before the summit attempt.

Climbers must:

• Ascend gradually
• Stay properly hydrated
• Eat regularly
• Avoid unnecessary overexertion
• Report unusual symptoms
• Follow the acclimatization plan
• Descend when instructed for safety

Headaches, tiredness, reduced appetite, and poor sleep can occur at altitude. Persistent or worsening symptoms must never be ignored.

Technical Mountaineering Level

Participants must already be familiar with basic and intermediate mountaineering techniques.

You should be comfortable using:

• Crampons
• ice axe
• Climbing harness
• Helmet
• Ascender/Jumar
• Descender
• Carabiners
• Fixed ropes
• Safety lines
• Glacier travel equipment

The route includes glacier terrain, crevasses, steep snow and ice sections, and fixed ropes.

Technical difficulty can increase significantly following:

• Heavy snowfall
• Strong winds
• Hard or poor-quality ice
• Glacier movement
• Crevasse changes
• Poor visibility
• Extreme cold

Previous practical mountaineering experience is therefore essential.

Accommodation

Kathmandu

In Kathmandu, accommodation is provided in a comfortable hotel with a single room, according to the expedition package.

During the Trek

During the approach and return trek, accommodation is normally in local mountain lodges or teahouses.

Facilities become increasingly basic at higher elevations.

Rooms are generally twin or shared rooms, while bathrooms and showers are often shared.

Manaslu Base Camp

Every participant receives an individual sleeping tent at Base Camp.

Because climbers spend several weeks here, we establish Base Camp to provide a comfortable environment for rest and recovery.

Facilities normally include:

• Individual sleeping tent
• Mattress
• Heated or comfortable dining/mess tent
• Tables and chairs
• Kitchen tent
• Shower tent
• Toilet facilities
• Equipment/storage areas

Base Camp facilities may vary slightly according to weather and local conditions.

High-Altitude Camps

At higher camps, accommodation is much more basic.

Climbers normally share expedition tents with two people, although three people may occasionally share a tent at upper camps depending on logistics and conditions.

Comfort is limited, and participants must be prepared for cold temperatures and confined living conditions.

Hygiene at Base Camp

Maintaining good hygiene is very important during a long expedition.

Toilets

Base Camp has designated toilet facilities and toilet paper.

Always use hand sanitizer or wash your hands thoroughly after using the toilet.

At higher camps, climbers are advised to carry a personal urine bottle for use during the night.

Washing

Water and soap are available at Base Camp for washing hands and face.

Water provided specifically for washing should not be used for drinking.

Shower

Hot water can be requested from the kitchen team.

We recommend showering during warm and sunny conditions to reduce the risk of becoming chilled.

Laundry

Basic cold water can be provided for washing clothing.

Please use biodegradable soap and environmentally responsible products only.

Meals During the Expedition

Kathmandu

A welcome dinner is provided after arrival according to the itinerary, and a farewell meal is normally arranged after completing the expedition.

Other meals in Kathmandu will be provided according to the package described in the Cost Includes section.

Meals During the Trek

Breakfast and dinner are normally served in trekking lodges.

A typical daily menu may include:

Breakfast

• Eggs
• Toast or chapati
• Tibetan bread
• Pancakes
• Butter and jam
• Tea or coffee

Lunch

• Local or  main course
• Tea or coffee

Dinner

• Soup
• Main course
• Vegetables
• Fruit when available
• Tea or coffee

Special dietary requirements should be communicated before arriving in Nepal.

Base Camp Meals

At Manaslu Base Camp, meals are prepared by our professional kitchen team.

Food normally includes a combination of:

• Rice
• Pasta
• Potatoe
• Lentils
• Vegetables
• Eggs
• Soups
• Meat when available
• Local and international dishes

Tea, coffee, and other non-alcoholic hot drinks are available.

Maintaining good nutrition and hydration is an important part of acclimatization and recovery.

Meals at High Camps

At altitude, appetite often decreases, so meals become simpler and lighter.

Where operationally possible, our team provides prepared food at the lower high camps.

At upper camps, climbers normally use:

• Freeze-dried meals
• Energy foods
• Soups
• Snacks
• Tea
• Coffee
• Electrolyte drinks

High-altitude tents are supplied with appropriate stoves and fuel for melting snow and preparing hot drinks and meals.

Climbers are welcome to bring personal snacks and familiar high-energy foods.

Drinking Water and Hydration

Staying well hydrated is extremely important at altitude.

Water is normally obtained from clean local sources or melted snow depending on location.

We recommend bringing:

• Water purification tablets
• Electrolyte tablets
• Mineral salts
• Personal water bottles
• Insulated bottle or thermos

Your guide will advise when water treatment is necessary.  Avoid excessive use of disposable plastic bottles whenever possible.

Transfers and Transportation

All planned road transfers are arranged by Alpinist Club according to the itinerary.

We normally approach Manaslu Base Camp by trekking rather than helicopter.

The trek provides several important benefits:

• Gradual acclimatization
• Physical preparation
• Psychological adjustment
• Familiarization with the team
• Better understanding of the region
• The normal return is also by trekking and road transport.

A private helicopter return may sometimes be arranged at additional cost, subject to weather, availability, government regulations, and landing conditions.

Group Size

Our Manaslu Expedition normally operates with 1–15 international participants.

Keeping expedition groups manageable allows us to provide:

• Better individual attention
• More flexible climbing strategies
• Stronger team coordination
• Better Base Camp organization
• More personalized Sherpa support

Regardless of group size, each participating climber receives the agreed high-altitude Sherpa support according to the expedition package.

Collective Expedition Equipment

Alpinist Club provides the major collective expedition equipment required for the operation.

This normally includes:

Base Camp

• Individual sleeping tents
• Mattresses
• Mess/dining tent
• Kitchen equipment
• Shower tent
• Toilet facilities
• Tables and chairs
• Communication equipment

High Camps

• High-altitude tents
• Cooking stoves
• EPI gas Fuel
• Collective ropes
• Anchoring equipment
• Other expedition logistics equipment

Exact equipment arrangements may change according to route conditions and expedition requirements.

Personal Climbing Equipment

Participants must bring their own personal mountaineering equipment.

A detailed equipment list will be provided before departure.

Typical equipment includes:

• Expedition down suit
• High-altitude mountaineering boots
• Crampons
• Ice axe
• Harness
• Helmet
• Jumar/ascender
• Descender
• Carabiners
• Expedition gloves and mittens
• Glacier sunglasses
• Goggles
• Sleeping bag suitable for extreme cold
• Technical base layers
• Insulating layers
• Waterproof shell
• Expedition backpack
• Headlamp

Some specialist items such as high-altitude sleeping bags and down clothing may be available for rental in Kathmandu, subject to availability.

Supplemental Oxygen on Manaslu

Supplemental oxygen strategy is discussed individually with each climber and the expedition leader.

The standard expedition package includes:

• 2 × 4L oxygen cylinders per member
• Oxygen mask
• Oxygen regulator
• 1 oxygen cylinder for each high-altitude Sherpa

Most climbers use supplemental oxygen during the higher stages of the expedition and summit attempt. Additional oxygen requested beyond the package allocation is charged separately. Choosing not to use the oxygen included in the package does not reduce the expedition price.

Climbing Without Supplemental Oxygen

An oxygen-free ascent of Manaslu is significantly more demanding.

Climbers considering this approach must discuss their plan with the expedition leader well before the summit period.

Previous extreme-altitude experience, exceptional acclimatization, physical fitness, and the ability to operate independently are essential.

Communication and Charging

Communication facilities at Base Camp may include mobile networks, satellite communication, or internet services depending on current availability.

Power for charging phones, cameras, watches, and other small devices may be available through solar or generator systems.

Connectivity should never be considered guaranteed in the high mountains.

Participants should carry personal power banks for backup.

Medical Check-Up Before the Expedition

Excellent health is essential for an 8,000-meter expedition.

Before travelling to Nepal, we strongly recommend undergoing a medical examination and informing your doctor that you plan to climb Manaslu at 8,163 meters.

We also recommend:

• Cardiovascular assessment where appropriate
• Dental check-up
• Review of existing medication
• Discussion of altitude-related risks
• Consultation with a doctor experienced in wilderness or mountain medicine

Any significant medical condition should be discussed confidentially with the expedition team before departure.

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)

Altitude illness is a serious consideration during the expedition.

Early symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness can include:

• Headache
• Nausea
• Dizziness
• Unusual fatigue
• Poor sleep
• Reduced appetite

More serious altitude illness may develop into High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) or High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). Both are medical emergencies requiring immediate action and usually rapid descent.

Never hide symptoms from your guide or expedition leader.

Acetazolamide (Diamox) is sometimes used for the prevention or treatment of altitude illness, but it should only be taken after discussing its suitability, dosage, contraindications, and possible side effects with a qualified medical professional.

Medication is not a substitute for proper acclimatization or descent when required.

Travel and Mountaineering Insurance

Comprehensive insurance is mandatory for the Manaslu Expedition.

Your policy should specifically cover:

• Mountaineering up to at least 8,500 meters
• Emergency helicopter evacuation
• High-altitude rescue
• Hospital and medical treatment
• Repatriation
• Trip cancellation
• Trip interruption
• Search and rescue where available

Many standard travel insurance policies exclude mountaineering above certain elevations, so climbers must carefully check their policy before travelling.

Alpinist Club reserves the right to request proof of adequate insurance before the expedition begins.

Emergency and Evacuation Procedures

In an emergency, the expedition leader will coordinate the appropriate response based on the climber's condition, location, weather, and available rescue resources.

Possible actions may include:

• Assisted descent
• Return to Base Camp
• Oxygen administration
• Medical assessmen
• Helicopter evacuation where possible
• Transfer to a hospital in Kathmandu

Helicopter rescue is dependent on weather, visibility, altitude, aircraft availability, and government regulations. Immediate evacuation can therefore never be guaranteed.

Personal Responsibility

An expedition to Manaslu is a team effort, but every climber also has personal responsibilities.

Participants are expected to:

• Arrive properly trained
• Bring suitable personal equipment
• Follow safety instructions
• Report health problems immediately
• Respect the local team and other climbers
• Maintain good hygiene
• Care for personal equipment
• Avoid unnecessary risks
• Respect the environment
• Maintain a cooperative attitude during difficult situations

Patience, tolerance, flexibility, and teamwork are extremely important during a long Himalayan expedition.

Environmental Responsibility

We aim to minimize the environmental impact of our expeditions.

Participants are expected to:

• Avoid unnecessary single-use plastics
• Use designated toilet facilities
• Carry personal waste when required
• Use biodegradable hygiene products
• Respect local communities and cultural traditions
• Follow Base Camp waste-management procedures

Our team removes expedition waste from Base Camp and higher camps according to local regulations and practical mountain conditions.

Important Note

Manaslu is an 8,163-meter Himalayan mountain, and no expedition can guarantee a summit.

Weather, route conditions, avalanches, illness, acclimatization, government restrictions, and other factors can affect the program.

Our priority throughout the expedition is to create the best possible conditions for a successful climb while maintaining one principle above everything else:

The summit is optional. Returning safely is essential.