Mera Peak & Island Peak via Amphu Lapsa Pass

1. Your Expedition Team

From your arrival in Kathmandu until your departure, your guide and expedition leader coordinate the trip, manage the team, and help ensure your safety. Please follow their instructions, particularly during high-altitude trekking, glacier travel, technical climbing, and pass crossings.

Your Nepalese support team may include the following members, depending on the group size and expedition arrangements.

Expedition Leader / Sirdar

The Sirdar leads and coordinates the trekking and support team. They oversee daily operations, coordinate staff responsibilities, and help ensure that the itinerary runs safely and efficiently.

Climbing Sherpas

Climbing Sherpas provide technical support during the Mera Peak and Island Peak ascents and the Amphu Laptsa Pass crossing. Their responsibilities may include fixing ropes, assisting with glacier travel, supporting summit attempts, and carrying essential climbing equipment.

Assistant Guides

Assistant guides support the expedition leader, assist participants along the trail, help manage daily activities, and provide additional guidance during challenging sections.

Cook and Kitchen Staff

During camping sections, the cook and kitchen team prepare meals, manage food supplies, and maintain the camp kitchen.

Porters

Porters carry trekking luggage and supplies between camps and lodges. Alpinist Club arranges appropriate equipment and insurance for its staff according to the applicable requirements.

Baggage Allowance

The planned baggage allowance depends on the type of trip and the arrangements for transporting equipment. The following limits are provided as a general guide and should be confirmed before departure:

• Trekking: up to 22 kg per trekker.
• Expeditions and summit climbs: up to 27 kg per trekker.

Additional charges or arrangements may apply for heavier loads. Please confirm the final baggage allowance and porter arrangements with Alpinist Club before your trip.

2. Accommodation in Kathmandu

During your stay in Kathmandu, you will be accommodated in a comfortable hotel. The specific hotel depends on availability and the confirmed booking.

3. Accommodation During the Trek

Lodge Accommodation

During the trekking sections, we stay in local lodges or teahouses. Accommodation standards vary according to location and availability. Rooms may be twin, triple, or dormitory-style, and facilities are generally simple.

Bathrooms and toilets may be shared, and hot showers and charging facilities may incur additional charges. As we move into more remote and higher-altitude areas, accommodation becomes increasingly basic.

Base Camp and High Camp Accommodation

During the expedition, our support team arranges tented accommodation at both Base Camp and High Camp. At Base Camp, facilities generally include sleeping tents with mattresses, a dining tent with tables and seating, a kitchen tent for meal preparation, and basic toilet and waste-management facilities.

At High Camp, we use specialized mountaineering tents designed for cold temperatures, strong winds, and exposed mountain conditions. Tents generally accommodate two climbers, although three-person arrangements may be necessary depending on availability and conditions. Facilities at higher elevations are more basic, and climbers should be prepared for cold temperatures, simple sleeping arrangements, and limited comfort. Our team prioritizes safety, proper camp setup, and essential support throughout the expedition

4. Meals During the Expedition

Alpinist Club arranges meals according to the itinerary and accommodation type. The menu varies with altitude, food availability, and the facilities available at each location.

Meals in Kathmandu

A welcome dinner is provided on the first evening, and a farewell meal may be arranged at the end of the expedition according to your confirmed package. Kathmandu also offers a wide selection of restaurants serving Nepalese and international cuisine.

Meals During Lodge Trekking

Breakfast and dinner are generally served at the lodge where we stay overnight. Lunch is taken along the trail, usually at a suitable lodge or teahouse.

Typical meals include rice, noodles, pasta, potatoes, vegetables, eggs, soups, lentils, bread, and other locally available dishes. Tea and coffee are commonly available.

Meals at Base Camp and High-Altitude Camps

During the expedition, our kitchen team prepares nutritious meals using locally available ingredients and supplies carried by the support team. At Base Camp, meals are served in the dining tent whenever conditions permit, with hot drinks such as tea and coffee provided to help maintain hydration.

Example Daily Men

• Breakfast: Eggs, toast, chapati, Tibetan bread or pancakes, butter, jam, tea, or coffee.
• Lunch: A main meal, with tea or coffee where available.
• Dinner: Soup, a main course, fruit where available, and tea or coffee.

Meal options vary by location and altitude. Any food allergies, dietary restrictions, or special requirements should be communicated to Alpinist Club in advance.

Drinking Water

 Water purification tablets or another suitable treatment method should be used when required. Bring reusable water bottles or hydration containers and refill them with appropriately treated water.

To reduce plastic waste, we recommend avoiding single-use bottled water whenever safe alternatives are available.

5. Expedition Difficulty and Technical Requirements

The Mera Peak and Island Peak expedition via Amphu Laptsa Pass is a demanding high-altitude mountaineering trip. It combines long trekking days, remote camping, glacier travel, steep snow and ice, and a technical mountain-pass crossing.

Participants should have:

• Excellent cardiovascular fitness and endurance.
• Previous high-altitude trekking experience.
• Basic mountaineering training and practical rope skills.
• Experience using crampons, an ice axe, a harness, and an ascender.
• The ability to walk for several hours over rough and uneven terrain.
• The confidence to follow guide instructions during exposed and technical sections.

Mera Peak involves glacier travel and snow slopes, while Island Peak includes more technical climbing sections. Amphu Laptsa Pass requires particular care because of its glacial terrain and potentially steep, exposed descent.

This itinerary should not be considered a beginner-level trekking holiday. Previous mountaineering experience and appropriate preparation are essential.

6. Physical Preparation

We recommend beginning your physical preparation several months before departure. Training should focus on endurance, strength, balance, and the ability to sustain activity over consecutive days.

Useful preparation includes:

• Regular hikes of four to six hours, preferably on varied terrain.
• Cardiovascular training such as running, cycling, swimming, or stair climbing.
• Leg, core, and upper-body strength exercises.
• Training with a loaded backpack.
• Practising on steep trails and uneven ground.
• Completing mountaineering training with the equipment required for the expedition.

Previous experience at altitude and familiarity with technical climbing equipment are particularly important for this route.

7. Medical Check-Up Before Departure

Good health is essential for a successful high-altitude expedition. We recommend arranging a medical examination before departure and discussing the itinerary, altitude, physical demands, and technical climbing requirements with your doctor.

A consultation with a doctor experienced in mountain medicine is advisable, particularly for participants who have previously experienced altitude-related problems or have existing medical concerns.

A dental check-up before departure is also recommended, as dental problems can become more difficult to manage in remote mountain environments.

8. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)

The itinerary reaches high elevations where altitude-related illness can occur. Symptoms of acute mountain sickness may include headache, nausea, dizziness, fatigue, and loss of appetite.

More serious altitude-related conditions, including high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE), require urgent medical attention.

To reduce the risk of altitude illness:

• Follow the planned acclimatization schedule.
• Maintain adequate hydration and nutrition.
• Inform your guide immediately if you feel unwell.
• Do not continue ascending when experiencing symptoms that may indicate altitude illness.
• Follow your guide's advice regarding rest, descent, and emergency arrangements.

No medication guarantees prevention of altitude sickness. Discuss preventive medication, including acetazolamide (Diamox), with a qualified medical professional before departure. Do not rely on medication to continue ascending when it is unsafe to do so.

9. Transportation and Transfers

All scheduled ground transfers included in the confirmed package are arranged using private vehicles.

Flights between Kathmandu and Lukla are subject to weather, airline operations, and airport arrangements. Depending on the operating schedule, flights may depart from or arrive at Ramechhap Airport, requiring an additional road transfer between Ramechhap and Kathmandu.

Flight delays and cancellations are possible, so the itinerary includes contingency time where specified.

10. Group Size

The standard group size is between  2 to 10 participants. Small groups allow more flexibility, closer coordination with the guides, and a more personal experience in remote mountain areas.

Larger groups may be considered for participants travelling together, subject to operational arrangements and the availability of appropriate guides and climbing support.

The guide-to-client ratio and number of climbing Sherpas depend on the group size, technical requirements, and confirmed expedition plan.

11. Camping and Climbing Equipment

Alpinist Club arranges the shared logistical equipment required for the camping sections and technical climbing activities.

Depending on the confirmed itinerary, this may include:

• Sleeping tents and mattresses for base camp.
• Dining and kitchen tents.
• Toilet facilities and waste-management equipment.
• Cooking equipment and supplies.
• High-altitude tents.
• Stoves and fuel for high camps.
• Ropes, anchors, and other technical equipment required by the climbing team.

The precise equipment setup varies according to the camp location, weather, route conditions, and expedition requirements.

12. Personal Mountaineering Equipment

Personal clothing and technical equipment are generally the participant's responsibility. Alpinist Club will provide a detailed equipment checklist during the preparation process.

Essential personal equipment may include:

• Mountaineering boots suitable for the route and conditions.
• Crampons and an ice axe.
• Climbing harness, helmet, and suitable ascender.
• Warm base layers, insulating layers, and waterproof outerwear.
• A high-quality down jacket and sleeping bag suitable for the expected temperatures.
• Gloves, warm hats, sunglasses, and glacier protection.
• A headlamp, backpack, water bottles, and personal essentials.

Some specialized equipment, including high-altitude sleeping bags and down suits, may be available for rent. Availability, rental fees, deposits, and return conditions must be confirmed before departure.

13. Safety and Communication

Safety is a priority throughout the expedition. The team uses communication equipment and emergency arrangements appropriate to the route and available facilities.

The planned safety arrangements may include:

• Radios for communication between the expedition leader, climbing Sherpas, and camps.
• Weather updates and route-condition assessments.
• First-aid supplies and an emergency medical kit.
• Emergency evacuation coordination when required.

A portable hyperbaric chamber and additional medical supplies may be included in the base camp arrangements, subject to confirmation in the final expedition plan. Medical facilities and equipment at higher camps are limited.

Participants must follow the instructions of the expedition leader and climbing guides, particularly during glacier travel, rope work, summit attempts, and the Amphu Laptsa Pass crossing.

Mountain weather and route conditions can change rapidly. The guide may modify the itinerary, delay a summit attempt, or require a retreat when conditions are unsafe.

14. Environmental Responsibility

The expedition travels through sensitive Himalayan environments where waste disposal and responsible camping are essential.

All participants and support staff should follow local conservation rules, minimize plastic waste, and avoid leaving rubbish along the trail or at campsites.

Human waste and other expedition waste must be managed according to the applicable local regulations and the waste-management arrangements for each camp.

By following responsible trekking and climbing practices, we help protect the mountain environment and respect the communities that make these journeys possible.