Makalu II Climbing Expedition (7,678 m)

Climb Makalu II, also known as Kangchungtse (7,678 m), with Alpinist Club on a challenging high-altitude mountaineering expedition in Nepal's remote Makalu-Barun region. This expedition combines a scenic approach through the Arun Valley and Barun Valley with glacier travel, technical climbing, high-camp rotations, and a demanding summit attempt.

The 38-day itinerary includes preparation in Kathmandu, a flight to Tumlingtar, a trek through remote mountain settlements, acclimatization at high altitude, and a dedicated climbing period. Experienced climbing Sherpas and an expedition support team assist with logistics, camp establishment, route preparation, and climbing operations as specified in the package.

Makalu II is a serious mountaineering objective, not an introductory climbing peak. Participants should have previous high-altitude expedition experience, excellent physical fitness, and strong technical climbing skills. Summit success depends on weather, snow and ice conditions, acclimatization, and the decisions of the expedition leadership.

Join Alpinist Club for a professionally organized Himalayan expedition with a focus on safety, careful acclimatization, and responsible mountaineering.

  • Take on a challenging high-altitude Himalayan climbing adventure.
  • enefit from dedicated 1:1 high-altitude Sherpa support.
  • Explore the spectacular Makalu-Barun region and Barun Valley.
  • Enjoy organized base-camp facilities, meals, and climbing support.
  • 1. Challenge yourself with technical climbing, acclimatization, and a planned summit attempt.

Itinerary

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Participants arrive in Kathmandu. Our team will greet you at the airport and manage your transfer to the hotel. Passports will be collected for processing the climbing permit

  • Transport: Private minibus
  • Meals: Lunch (not included), Dinner (not included)
  • Accommodation: Hotel

Expedition briefing with the team leader regarding required equipment. If needed, additional gear can be purchased in the mountaineering shops around Thamel. Meanwhile, our local staff will handle administrative formalities and finalize climbing permits.

  • Meals: Breakfast at the hotel; Lunch & Dinner not included
  • Accommodation: Hotel

Morning flight to Tumlingtar offers spectacular views of the Nepal Himalayas, including Langtang, Rolwaling, and the distant Khumbu peaks. Upon landing, our private vehicle will transfer us to Num, a village overlooking the Arun River and the starting point of our trek.

  • Transport: Flight + Private vehicle
  • Duration: 1-hour flight; approx. 3-hour drive
  • Altitude: 1490 m
  • Meals: Breakfast at the hotel, Picnic lunch, Dinner at the lodge
  • Accommodation: Lodge

The trail follows a descending route toward the Arun River. After leaving the vehicle behind, we continue on foot with our porters. We cross a suspension bridge and climb steadily to Seduwa, a charming village with traditional lowland houses.

  • Trek Duration: 5 hours
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: +950 m / -235 m
  • Altitude: 1600 m
  • Meals: Breakfast, Picnic lunch, Dinner
  • Accommodation: Lodge

We trek through bamboo, birch, and rhododendron forest, contouring above the valley. After passing Tashi Gaon— the final permanent settlement in the Arun Valley— the trail climbs in switchbacks to the Sadema pasture.

  • Trek Duration: 6 hours
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: +750 m / -180 m
  • Altitude: 2135 m
  • Meals: Breakfast, Picnic lunch, Dinner
  • Accommodation: Lodge

A long, steady ascent. The forest gradually thins, revealing increasingly impressive high-mountain scenery. In some seasons, the rhododendrons may still be blooming.

  • Trek Duration: 6 hours
  • Elevation Gain: +1100 m
  • Altitude: 3470 m
  • Meals: Breakfast, Picnic lunch, Dinner
  • Accommodation: Lodge

A stunning day crossing the Shipton La Pass (4,217 m) through rhododendron forests. We ascend a ridge with spectacular views of Chamlang and Makalu. After crossing several passes—Ghungru La (4,050 m) and Keke La (4,180 m)—we descend gradually to the Mumbuk pastures and continue to Dobato.

  • Trek Duration: 6 hours
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: +950 m / -630 m
  • Altitude: 3800 m (high point 4217 m)
  • Meals: Breakfast, Picnic lunch, Dinner
  • Accommodation: Lodge

The path traverses steep slopes above the Arun basin and can be narrow and exposed. After crossing a forest and navigating sections affected by landslides, we reach Phemathang Kharka for lunch. A new wooden bridge leads us across the Barun Khola before continuing to Yangle Kharka, a settlement of a few wooden lodges.

  • Trek Duration: 5 hours
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: +400 m / -600 m
  • Altitude: 3650 m
  • Meals: Breakfast, Picnic lunch, Dinner
  • Accommodation: Lodge

A full rest day to help our bodies acclimatize to altitude.

  • Altitude: 3650 m
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner  
  • Accommodation: Lodge

We follow the left bank of the river on a temporary trail shaped by past mudslides. After rejoining the original path, we enter a pine forest with beautiful views of the glacial valleys of Peaks 6 and 7. A gentle ascent brings us to Merek, then across the new riverbed formed by landslide debris, before climbing to Langmale Kharka.

  • Trek Duration: 5 hours
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: +800 m / -35 m
  • Altitude: 4300 m
  • Meals: Breakfast, Picnic lunch, Dinner
  • Accommodation: Lodge

We cross the Langmale pastures and follow the moraine on the west side of the Barun Glacier. At Shershong, we turn toward a pass that offers the first breathtaking view of Makalu’s massive south face. We contour along the moraine before descending to cross the river and reach Hillary Base Camp. Optional afternoon hike to a nearby moraine lake and prayer-flag hill.

  • Accommodation: Lodge
  • Trek Duration: 4 hours
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: +520 m / -100 m
  • Altitude: 4870 m
  • Meals: Breakfast, Picnic lunch, Dinner

Two full days dedicated to acclimatization, including an ascent of Makalu Pattar (5,795 m) for exceptional panoramic views, including the north face of Everest. Return to camp for rest.

  • Trek Duration: 4 hours
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: +925 m / -925 m
  • Altitude: Base Camp 4870 m / Makalu Pattar 5795 m
  • Meals: Breakfast, Picnic lunch, Dinner
  • Accommodation: Lodge

We follow cairns through lateral moraines and across the Barun Glacier. After passing below the dramatic west pillar of Makalu below, we ascend scree slopes toward the northwest couloir and arrive at Advanced Base Camp (ABC).

  • Trek Duration: 7 hours
  • Elevation Gain: +820 m
  • Altitude: 5690 m
  • Meals: Breakfast, Picnic lunch, Dinner
  • Accommodation: Tent

A 14-day climbing window is allocated for summit attempts. Key stages include:

ABC (5690 m) → Camp 1 (6165 m): ~6 hours

Gentle ascent through the northwest couloir. One acclimatization night.

  • Camp 1 → Camp 2 (6600 m): 3–4 hours Steeper terrain with crevasses and short 45° ice sections. Fixed ropes on difficult sections.
  • Camp 2 → Camp 3 (7500 m): 8–9 hours. The technical crux (AD+), features 50–55° slopes, mixed terrain, and fixed ropes. Camp located just above Makalu La. One acclimatization night, then return to ABC for rest.
  • Camp 3 → Summit (7678 m) → Camp 2: 7–8 hours. Straightforward climb along the north-northwest ridge. Return via the same route with multiple rappels.

We begin our descent, now faster and easier due to improved acclimatization.

  • Duration: 6 hours
  • Altitude: 4100 m
  • Meals: Breakfast, Picnic lunch, Dinner
  • Accommodation: Lodge

  • Duration: 6 hours
  • Altitude: 3800 m
  • Meals: Breakfast, Picnic lunch, Dinner
  • Accommodation: Lodge

  • Duration: 6 hours
  • Altitude: 2135 m
  • Meals: Breakfast, Picnic lunch, Dinner
  • Accommodation: Lodge

  • Duration: 6 hours
  • Altitude: 1490 m
  • Meals: Breakfast, Picnic lunch, Dinner
  • Accommodation: Lodge

Drive back to Tumlingtar.

  • Transport: Private vehicle
  • Duration: 4 hours
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch at camp, Dinner
  • Accommodation: Hotel

Return flight to Kathmandu (1 hour).

  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner not included
  • Accommodation: Hotel

A full day for independent sightseeing, shopping, or relaxation.

  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner not included
  • Accommodation: Hotel

Transfer to the airport for your international flight back home, depending on your schedule.

  • Meals: Breakfast, other meals not included
  • Accommodation: Overnight flight

Everest Very High altitude Note:

If you have a private group and prefer a personalized experience, we can organize a custom trip tailored to your requirements and group size, running it any day you choose.

Plan a Private Trip

Included & Excluded

Included Points

Airport Transfers : Private vehicle transfers between Tribhuvan International Airport and your hotel on arrival and departure.
Kathmandu Accommodation : Four nights in a single room at a four-star hotel on a bed-and-breakfast basis, as stated in the existing package.
Welcome Dinner : One welcome dinner at a tourist-standard restaurant in Kathmandu with the Alpinist Club team.
Domestic Flights : Kathmandu–Tumlingtar and Tumlingtar–Kathmandu flights, subject to the final confirmed package.
Ground Transportation : Private vehicle transfers are required by the confirmed itinerary.
Trekking Accommodation : Lodge accommodation during the approach trek, where available, and camping accommodation where required.
Member Baggage : Up to 40 kg per member for personal baggage carried by porters or pack animals, subject to route logistics and confirmed baggage arrangements.
Expedition Equipment Transport : Transport of the agreed group expedition equipment between Kathmandu, Tumlingtar, the approach route, and base camp.
Climbing Permit : Applicable Makalu II climbing permit.
Trekking Permits : Required trekking and conservation-area permits for the confirmed route.
Government Liaison Officer : Government-licensed liaison officer, including the applicable salary, equipment, and accommodation.
Garbage Management : Applicable expedition waste-management and garbage-deposit fees.
Alpinist Club Duffle Bag : One expedition duffel bag per member.
Meals During the Trek : Breakfast, lunch, and dinner during the trekking stages, according to the confirmed itinerary.
Base Camp Meals : Meals prepared by the expedition kitchen team during the base-camp period.
Base Camp Kitchen Team : Experienced cook and kitchen assistants as required by the operating plan.
Porters and Support Staff : Agreed porters and local staff for transporting expedition equipment and supporting base-camp operations.
Staff Insurance : Medical and emergency-rescue insurance for the Nepalese staff included in the expedition contract.
Base Camp Accommodation : Individual sleeping tent, mattress, and pillow for each member.
Base Camp Facilities : Dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, shower tent, staff accommodation, storage tents, tables, chairs, and cooking equipment as specified in the package.
Power Supply : Solar power and/or generator support for agreed lighting and charging facilities at base camp.
High-Camp Accommodation : Shared high-altitude tents, planned at approximately two climbers per tent, subject to final logistics.
High-Camp Supplies : Agreed tents, cooking equipment, fuel, food supplies, and group climbing equipment for the designated high camps.
Fixed-Rope Support : Route preparation and fixed-rope support during the climbing period, subject to mountain conditions and the final climbing plan.
Climbing Sherpa : One high-altitude climbing Sherpa per member (1:1 ratio), as stated in the existing package, for the contracted climbing services.
Sherpa Equipment and Allowances : Oxygen bottles will be in stock at base camp in case of an emergency (with an appropriate charge).
Climbing Support : Assistance with carrying agreed climbing equipment to high camps and during climbing rotations.
Training : Base-camp instruction on the use of climbing equipment and oxygen systems, if these services are confirmed in the final package.
Weather Forecast : Expedition weather information during the climbing period.
Communication : Expedition radios and satellite-phone access for emergency and operational communication, subject to the package's usage conditions.
Medical Kit : Expedition medical supplies for members and staff.
Summit Certificate: : Makalu II climbing certificate, subject to the operator's certificate policy and the relevant summit verification.

Excluded Points

Air fare : International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
Nepal entry visa fee : The Nepalese Visa fee is $ 125 USD for 90 Days.
Kathmandu Meals : Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu, except the included welcome dinner and any other meals explicitly listed.
Extra Accommodation : Additional hotel nights caused by early arrival, late departure, itinerary changes, flight cancellations, or an early return from the expedition, unless otherwise agreed.
Personal Expenses : Telephone calls, internet, laundry, toiletries, battery charging, hot showers where charged, snacks, and personal purchases.
Personal Climbing Equipment : Clothing, boots, harness, helmet, crampons, ice axe, sleeping bag, down suit, gloves, goggles, and other personal trekking and mountaineering gear.
Personal Medical Supplies: : Individual medication and personal first-aid items.
Personal Travel and Mountaineering Insurance : Each member must arrange insurance covering high-altitude mountaineering up to at least 7,678 m, emergency evacuation, medical treatment, trip cancellation, interruption, and repatriation
Summit Bonus : The high-altitude Sherpa summit bonus 1200 USd
Oxygen and Personal Oxygen Equipment : Summit oxygen cylinders, masks, regulators, and personal oxygen use unless explicitly included in the confirmed package. Emergency oxygen held at base camp should not be represented as included summit oxygen.
Additional Services : - Any service, item, or activity not expressly included in the confirmed itinerary and package inclusions.

Trip Information

Makalu II Climbing Expedition (7,678 m)

The Makalu II Climbing Expedition (7,678 m) requires excellent physical fitness, previous high-altitude climbing experience, and strong technical mountaineering skills. Alpinist Club provides experienced expedition leaders, high-altitude Sherpa support, accommodation, meals, and expedition logistics as specified in the package. Proper acclimatization, careful preparation, and a strong focus on safety are essential for this challenging Himalayan adventure.

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1. Expedition Team

Our experienced Nepalese team includes an expedition leader (Sirdar), high-altitude climbing Sherpas, assistant guides, cooks, kitchen assistants, and porters. Each team member has a specific role in supporting your safety, comfort, and expedition logistics.

2. High-Altitude Sherpa Support

The expedition includes one high-altitude climbing Sherpa per participant (1:1 ratio), as specified in the package. Your Sherpa provides technical support during the ascent and summit attempt. A summit bonus is payable in cash according to the agreed terms.

3. Expedition Leader

The expedition leader manages acclimatization, climbing rotations, weather monitoring, and summit planning. All participants must follow the leader's safety instructions. The itinerary or summit attempt may be changed if conditions are unsafe.

4. Kitchen and Porter Team

Our kitchen team prepares meals at base camp, while porters transport group equipment and supplies during the approach trek. High-altitude Sherpas assist with setting up and supplying the higher camps.

Participants carry their personal belongings and snacks, with a recommended backpack weight of approximately 10–12 kg.

5. Physical Fitness and Technical Experience

Makalu II is a demanding high-altitude expedition for experienced mountaineers. Excellent physical fitness, endurance, mental resilience, and previous high-altitude climbing experience are essential. Participants must be familiar with crampons, ice axes, harnesses, ropes, and glacier travel.

We recommend several months of physical and technical preparation before departure.

6. Accommodatio

  • Kathmandu: Hotel accommodation in a single room, as specified in the package.
  • During the trek: Mountain lodges with basic facilities and shared bathrooms.
  • Base camp: Individual sleeping tents with mattresses, dining facilities, kitchen, shower, and toilet tents.
  • High camps: Shared high-altitude tents, generally for two people, depending on conditions.

7. Meals and Drinking Water

Meals are provided during the trek and expedition according to the package. Typical meals include rice, pasta, lentils, vegetables, eggs, soup, and other available local foods.

At high camps, lightweight expedition meals are provided. Tea and coffee are available according to the package arrangements. Bring suitable water-purification supplies and follow your guide's advice on safe drinking water. Personal snacks and additional drinks may cost extra.

8. Transportation

Private vehicles are used for the road transfers included in the itinerary. The approach and return journeys are planned as treks to support gradual acclimatization. A helicopter return may be arranged at an additional cost, subject to weather and availability.

9. Group Size

The planned group size is 1–10 participants, as stated in the original package. Private group arrangements may be available upon request.

10. Expedition Equipment

Alpinist Club provides the agreed group equipment, including base-camp tents, dining and kitchen facilities, high-altitude tents, cooking equipment, ropes, and anchors required by the climbing plan.

Personal clothing and mountaineering equipment are not included unless specified. Rental of selected high-altitude equipment may be arranged in advance for an additional fee.

11. Safety and Communication

The expedition plan includes satellite communication, radios, and medical supplies as specified in the package. A portable hyperbaric chamber is listed for base camp; its availability should be confirmed before departure.

Weather, route conditions, and altitude-related health concerns may affect the itinerary. Summit success cannot be guaranteed.

12. Medical Check-Up and Altitude Sickness

A medical check-up with a doctor experienced in high-altitude medicine is recommended before departure. A dental check-up is also advisable.

Altitude sickness may cause headaches, nausea, dizziness, and fatigue. Severe cases can develop into life-threatening conditions, including high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE).

Report symptoms immediately to your expedition leader and follow medical advice. Proper acclimatization and timely descent when necessary are essential. Discuss altitude-related medication with your doctor before the expedition.

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Frequently Asked Questions

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Makalu II, also known as Kangchungtse, stands at 7,678 meters above sea level.

It is a challenging high-altitude mountaineering expedition requiring excellent fitness, technical climbing skills, and previous high-altitude experience.

The planned itinerary is 38 days, including arrival, trekking, acclimatization, climbing, and return to Kathmandu.

Spring- April are the main seasons to consider, subject to weather conditions and expedition planning.

Previous high-altitude expedition experience and proficiency with crampons, ice axes, harnesses, ropes, and glacier travel are essential.

The package specifies one high-altitude climbing Sherpa per participant (1:1 ratio). A summit bonus may be payable separately according to the agreed terms.

Meals and accommodation are provided according to the package, including hotel accommodation in Kathmandu, lodges during the trek, and tents at base camp and higher camps.

You must bring suitable personal mountaineering equipment, including technical boots, crampons, an ice axe, a harness, a helmet, suitable clothing, and a high-altitude sleeping bag. A detailed equipment list should be provided before departure.

You need comprehensive travel and mountaineering insurance covering climbing up to 7,678 meters, emergency evacuation, medical treatment, and repatriation.

Yes. Weather, route conditions, flight disruptions, and acclimatization needs may require changes to the schedule

No. Summit success depends on weather, climbing conditions, individual health, and acclimatization. Safety always comes first.